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Routes in (m) Taboo Area

A Handful of Harpies S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cavorting S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Forbidden Fruit S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Magic Mushroom S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Momentum S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Original Sin S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rocky S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Seduction S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Sins of the Flesh S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Sky Pilot S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Solidarity S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Taboo T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Violator S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: FFA-Louie Anderson, 2003
Page Views: 3,177 total, 29/month
Shared By: bheller on Jan 4, 2009
Admins: C Miller, Euan Cameron, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Open, with restrictions: Park on the street Details

Description

This climb desereves to be recognized! Brilliant, difficult climbing in a perfect stemming corner with great rock. Starts with blocky bolt protected face climbing off the belay ledge, then the climb gains another ledge at the base of a vertical corner with a crisp fingercrack. Stems and liebacks get one through the start to another stance midway, then this thing gets suprisingly steep and the crack gets thin! About a body length of powerful moves and desperate stems will see you through this steep bit, and then you face the pumping off-fingers lieback finish.
One of the best...better than 4 stars...brilliant!

Location

As you stand looking at west face of the quarry, the Taboo area is located on the right side of the steep granite walls. Taboo is the striking left-facing dihedral that begins about 80 feet off of the ground. To the lower right of the corner there is a light-colored large rock scar. There are a few different approach pitches that lead to the base of Taboo, I used Original Sin (11b). Original Sin is obvious because it begins off a ledge you and your belayer must scramble up on and it climbs obvious chipped pockets and jugs-and its fun. With a 70m rope you can link any of the approach routes with the Taboo dihedral and lower back down to the ground.

Protection

4 bolts protect off the midway belay ledge/anchors, and then nuts and doubles of cams from tips to off-fingers. (purple#0's to red#4's in metolius) Use draws/slings to elimiate drag in this steep corner.Ring anchors at the top of the crack- no finishing traverse to the left needed. You'll also need extra draws to lead the bolted approach pitches.
Did this one a couple/few years ago. It's kinda mediocre I thought. Very short crux section for how long the dihedral is but hey sure it's a trad pitch at the quarry and you do have to punch it through the moves! Dec 8, 2016