Avg: 3.3 from 4 votes
Routes in (m) Taboo Area
|A Handful of Harpies S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Cavorting S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Forbidden Fruit S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Magic Mushroom S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Momentum S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Original Sin S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Rocky S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Seduction S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c|
|Sins of the Flesh S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Sky Pilot S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Solidarity S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b|
|Taboo T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Violator S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Type:||Sport, 150 ft|
|FA:||Grahm Doe, 2003|
|Page Views:||522 total, 4/month|
|Shared By:||C Miller on Apr 2, 2008|
|Admins:||C Miller, Euan Cameron, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
Open, with restrictions: Park on the street Details
Do not drive into the Quarry. You will be ticketed $150 for trespassing. Climbing access is open, just park on the street.
DescriptionBalancy moves lead into a shallow right-facing corner and the start of the drill flute where interesting movement gains a small ledge below the crux at the 5th bolt. The reachy and somewhat bouldery crux is out of character with the rest of the climb as you continue up the drill flute with steep and sustained climbing along flakes, edges and jugs all the way to the anchors.
Since this route is over 100' long it's common to L-P-L to get down - lower down to the midpoint anchors, pull your rope, and then lower again to the ground.
LocationLocated at the far right side of the Taboo Area and visible as the right of two drill flute marks which identify this portion of the wall. This climb is also just down and left from Shwazzle Dazzle (5.11c) which is the furthest left route in The Alcove.
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