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Routes in (m) Taboo Area

A Handful of Harpies S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cavorting S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Forbidden Fruit S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Magic Mushroom S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Momentum S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Original Sin S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rocky S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Seduction S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Sins of the Flesh S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Sky Pilot S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Solidarity S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Taboo T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Violator S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Sport, 155 ft
FA: Louie Anderson, 2005
Page Views: 108 total · 5/month
Shared By: Alex Shainman on Dec 8, 2016
Admins: C Miller, Euan Cameron, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Open, with restrictions: Park on the street Details

Description

We only climbed to the first anchor, which is at approx 100". We did some extensive brushing, as the route was absolutely filthy. The extension looked worse but possibly good climbing.

To the first anchor felt mid 5.12, with a defined crux 1/3 of the way up moving in/out and across a shallow depression. It's very difficult to hang a draw on the bolt at the top of the crux.

We thought that it climbs quite well...after we cleaned it ;-)
There are a couple drilled holds and some glue but surprisingly not a ridiculous amount of choss. Although, still be careful at a couple jugs and off route footholds here and there.

I'm posting the route in hopes others climb it to keep it clean and perhaps clean the upper part!!!

Location

Right side of Taboo Area. Starts on the right side of a huge rust colored flake. Two lines left of Momentum.

Protection

I forget how many draws to 1st anchor. 22 bolts total to top.

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