Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Violator

5.11c, Sport, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 3.4 from 58 votes
FA: Louie Anderson, 2004
California > Inland Empire > Riverside Area > Riverside Quarry > (m) Taboo Area

Description

Start up a short section of easy slab to the base of a left-facing flake system which is jammed/liebacked to a cruxy sequence transitioning into another flake system; being tall helps, as does good technique. 

Once established in the upper flake race the pump as you climb the spectacular flake system, finishing with a second crux as you work fingery edges up and left, and then back right to anchors on a large ledge.

  • Athletic and pumpy with great positioning which makes this route a highly recommended route for the grade and also serves as an ideal warm-up for the harder lines in the area.
  • There is an extension route to this called Wicked Violator (5.13a)**** - 17 bolts to anchors.

Location

Located midway between the obvious left-facing corner of Taboo and Magic Mushroom, this climbs a series of steep flakes two routes right of Original Sin.

Protection

12 bolts, triple ring anchor

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Violator. Great steep climbing.
[Hide Photo] Violator. Great steep climbing.
Just below the upper crux of Violator (5.11c), Riverside Quarry
[Hide Photo] Just below the upper crux of Violator (5.11c), Riverside Quarry

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

C Miller
CA
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] Originally started from a ledge below the start of the flake system, there's now two bolts to start from ground level. Make sure to use a 70 meter rope if belaying from the ground or be extra careful when lowering off with anything shorter. Apr 2, 2008
Euan Cameron
Mammoth Lakes, CA
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] Big holds with only a couple of short crux sequences makes this a soft tick. The climbing is great however, and well worth doing. Nov 15, 2008
HeatherB-Radley
Augsburg, Germany
 
[Hide Comment] This is such a fun route! with 2 distinct cruxes and definitely a battle against the pump.... its my personal work in progress project until i can do it totally clean!!! :)
The info above is spot on when it said 'helps to be tall'- for little people like me it felt really challenging... ha, ended up dyno-ing the lower crux at the (joking) suggestion of my partner- but no one was more shocked than me when it actually worked!!! sooo... maybe that's the beta for short girls??
but yeah, 5 stars, super fun! can't wait to do more work on it! Oct 2, 2009
Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] The meat of the climb doesn't really get difficult till about 30 feet up from the new start. If you're 5'5 or lower, one clipping stand is pretty "reachy" and I would say right around the first crux of the climb.

Use the arm and hand jams up top to help with the pump! Jul 16, 2012
Ross Peritore
San Diego, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Easy for the grade and a really fun climb! Apr 22, 2018
Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] Used a 60meter rope today and had plenty of rope left when climbing and lowering from the ground.

Crux is definitely easier for taller people. You can stand on good feet when moving right to the crux before the giant glued flake up top. Apr 9, 2019