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Pépé Rodriguez
5.13a YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E6 6c British
Avg: 2.7 from 3
votes
Routes in Tranchant - Right
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Boson de la Merci S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Chipola T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Comte de Montecristo S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Fakir S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Ki L'Uru Kru S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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L'Évasion S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Lavement Double S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Le chateau d'If T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Malédiction du Tranchant S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Mercedes T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Mystère S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Patof S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pleurotte S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Pourriture S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pépé Rodriguez S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Simonize S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Sit down King Kong S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Tonerre de Brest S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Vache sauvage S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Waltz S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Zumanity S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 46.29168, -73.85248 |
| FA: | Guy Parent, 2009-09-06 |
| Page Views: | 1,089 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Eric Leclerc on Oct 21, 2014 · Updates |
| Admins: | Richer Lariviere, Luc-514 |
Access Issue: This cliffs is insured by the FQME
Details
Residents of Canada need to have:
-FQME 'Accès Montagne' membership (55$)
-For members of the Alpine Club of Canada an FQME 'Accès Montagne' upgrade (30$)
Or purchasing a 10$ day pass.
This money is used to pay the liability insurance for landowners regardless if they are private citizens, municipal or provincial.
The maintenance of cliffs and their access, replacing of fixed protection.
fqme.qc.ca
Description
Unfortunately, this route stays wet late in the spring, especially if there was heavy snow over the winter.
Even if the start is fairly easy, you should stick-clip the first bolt since the rock is flaky and fragile.
You will encounter the first easy (but hard to figure out) crux between the 2nd and 3rd bolt. You can either go straight up or veer slightly to the right.
A few easy moves lead you to the 4th bolt. You will then run in to a 5.12b/c bouldery crux. Once you pull this crux, traverse left on a small ledge and take a nice long rest. A couple more easy moves will bring you to an almost no-hands rest. Clip the 8th bolt and continue right away on to the 9th bolt to clip but climb back down to get one last shake.
Think twice before you attack the last section which is only one bolt + anchor but it consists of 20 hand and 20 feet movements on really small features. They are all biting but really small. If you don't make it to the anchor, you can expect a long fall.
It's easier if you use a jug high and left of the anchor to make the final clip.
The last third of this route is like a well-planned dance routine.
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