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Routes in Tranchant - Right

Boson de la Merci S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Chipola T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Comte de Montecristo S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fakir S 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c X
Ki L'Uru Kru S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
L'Évasion S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Lavement Double S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Le chateau d'If T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Malédiction du Tranchant S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Mercedes T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mystère S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Patof S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pleurotte S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pourriture S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pépé Rodriguez S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Simonize S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sit down King Kong S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tonerre de Brest S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Vache sauvage S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Waltz S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Zumanity S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Socrate Badeau 12/10/2009
Page Views: 54 total, 1/month
Shared By: Eric Leclerc on Oct 22, 2014
Admins: Luc-514

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This cliffs is insured by the FQME Details

Description

Starts near the rock shaped like a ladder. Use the flake feature to get to the bolt line. You will negotiate a crimpy section for a few bolts. After the fourth bolt, traverse right before you have to come back left.
You will then end up in the shared section of the route to the right (Simonize 5.12b).
If you make it up there, keep it together because the rest is only 12b.

Location

First of the last five routes that all start on the lower level.

Protection

10 bolts + anchor

Photos

Steve Bourdeau
  5.13a
Steve Bourdeau  
  5.13a
Even though the route has suffered two broken holds since its first ascent, it is still doable albeit with a different beta. The crux sequence involved--at least for me--two bad sidepulls, huge leg-spread moves between tiny footholds, and a razor-sharp one-finger-and-a-half sidepull. A beautiful sequence and overall a classic line when you put it all together. Jul 19, 2017