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Routes in Tranchant - Right

Boson de la Merci S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Chipola T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Comte de Montecristo S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fakir S 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c X
Ki L'Uru Kru S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
L'Évasion S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Lavement Double S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Le chateau d'If T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Malédiction du Tranchant S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Mercedes T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mystère S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Patof S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pleurotte S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pourriture S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pépé Rodriguez S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Simonize S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sit down King Kong S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tonerre de Brest S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Vache sauvage S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Waltz S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Zumanity S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 160 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Jean-Claude Néolet, 05/2010
Page Views: 92 total, 2/month
Shared By: Antoine Grenier on Jul 6, 2014
Admins: Luc-514

You & This Route


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This cliffs is insured by the FQME Details

Description

Pitch 1 5.8 13B 30m
1st pitch is best, only do second pitch if you want to top out. You can rap from 1st pitch (anchors available)Fairly sustained 5.8 climbing. Not pumpy but you will have to smear a bit and expect a funky offset slab 2/3 of the way up first pitch. Great little layback to get off this slab.

V1 5.8 13B 30m
Same start but take the second ramp and follow to the same anchor.

Pitch 2 5.8 7B 19m
From the belay, traverse left to join a large corner. Continue up to a large ledge. climb the last bump.

Location

You need to climb on a small dirt and rock step slab to access the base of the route.

Protection

Bolts all the way up...spacing is good, no runnouts on first pitch. Belay / rappel anchors at top of first pitch. Stickclip for first bolt recommended but not absolutely necessary.

Photos

Sebastien MacDonald
Montreal, QC
 
Sebastien MacDonald   Montreal, QC
 
WATCH OUT FOR LOOSE ROCKS ON THE SECOND PITCH

Did both pitches in one long pitch. While retrieving my rope after the first rappel from the top, a rock the size of my head ram down and missed me and climbers at the bottom by a few feet.

Be careful, this second pitch is dirty and hasn't seen much traffic. I suggest adding a sling to a big tree before engaging the last bump of the summit, little run out if not and the rope does pull you down.

Climb safely! Sep 14, 2017