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> Lost Horse Area
> Rock Garden Valley
> Rock Garden Valley -…
Turning Tricks
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2.7 from 11
votes
Routes in Rock Garden Valley - Middle
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Cuban Sandwich T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Double Fisting T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Marion Barry Goes to Washington TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mr. Michael goes to Washington T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Single Cat Leg (aka Why Does it Hurt When I Pee?) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Swiss Cheese T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Treat, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Turning Tricks T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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What's Hannen T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
| GPS: | 34.0221, -116.17879 |
| FA: | Bob Gaines, Frank Bentwood and Kelly Vaught, October 2014 |
| Page Views: | 1,845 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Bob Gaines on Oct 16, 2014 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This variation finish turns a good route into a great one.
Climb the crux of Single Cat Leg, then hand traverse right on a rail to an extended move right into an overhanging seam. Clip a bolt, then climb a bouldery sequence through slightly overhanging rock to jugs. Move left to a shelf with a 2-bolt anchor.
Tricky, sustained, technical, and pumper at the finish, on great rock; this little gem is at the top of my list of "Best Trad Leads" in Rock Garden Valley.
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