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Routes in Rock Garden Valley - Right Side

Amber Waves of Grain S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Barn Dance T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Barn Door, Left T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Barn Door, Right T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Black Plague T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Blue Sky, Black Death T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bolivian Freeze Job T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Born in a Barn T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chasin' the Grain TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chile Willie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cuban Sandwich T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Double Fisting T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lisa Lisa TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mr. Michael goes to Washington T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Single Cat Leg (aka Why Does it Hurt When I Pee?) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Swiss Cheese T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Treat, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Turning Tricks T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
What's Hannen T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Bob Gaines, Frank Bentwood , and Kelly Vaught, October 2014
Page Views: 640 total · 14/month
Shared By: Bob Gaines on Oct 16, 2014
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description [Suggest Change]

This variation finish turns a good route into a great one.

Climb the crux of Single Cat Leg, then hand traverse right on a rail to an extended move right into an overhanging seam. Clip a bolt, then climb a bouldery sequence through slightly overhanging rock to jugs. Move left to a shelf with a 2-bolt anchor.

Tricky, sustained, technical, and pumper at the finish, on great rock; this little gem is at the top of my list of "Best Trad Leads" in Rock Garden Valley.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Warning! The pro is bomber but difficult to place. I led this route after toprope rehearsal.

Take a good selection of small CDs from .3 to .75 inches. One bolt.

Photos

Tim Heid
AZ
 
Tim Heid   AZ
 
Really fun route!

We saw the traversing seam chalked up and thought it looked cool, so we hopped on it. Balancy start up thin moves, to a really fun traverse, and some sweet arete moves.

For us shorter folks, it's a pretty committing reach the arete before clipping the bolt. But a bomber cam in the seam near the beginning of the traverse makes you feel nice and happy making that move(which was the crux for me).

Thanks for the add to the area! Nov 24, 2014

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