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Routes in Short Cliffs

Angry Bunnies S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Aunt Fannie T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bag of Stems T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Basic Training T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Big Fat Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bologna Pony S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Buster Bronco T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Copperhead T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Coupe de Ville T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Desperate Indulgence T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Falling Object T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
First Lead T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hex Breaker T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hilti Dust S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jump Chump S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lithium Deficiency T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Minuteman T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mystery Route S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Neophyte Flight T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Overlord S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Petty Theft S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Spiny Trouble S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Swimmin' in Ignorance T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Temple, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Toddler S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Trimmed Bush T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown Leon S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Win, Lose, or Draw S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 357 total · 8/month
Shared By: Mike Dunstan on Oct 10, 2014
Admins: Mike Engle

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Description [Edit]

Tricky moves off the deck without gear leading to solid pro about 20 feet up. Clip the fixed nut and pull the roof with some smeary feet. There are rumors that a block came off making the throw above the roof more solid and the grade soft (it was originally rated 5.11c).

Location [Edit]

Right of Copperhead.

Protection [Edit]

Small cams and wires, there is an old fixed nut before the roof.

Photos

bheller
SL UT
bheller   SL UT
The rumors are true- I pulled that big block off somewhere around 2005 or so. It came right out- thankfully no one was hurt. I'm pretty sure Tedd Thompson got the FA. Oct 14, 2014

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