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Routes in Short Cliffs

Angry Bunnies S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Aunt Fannie T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bag of Stems T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Basic Training T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Big Fat Crack T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bologna Pony S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Buster Bronco T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Copperhead T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Desperate Indulgence T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Falling Object T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
First Lead T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hex Breaker T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hilti Dust S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jump Chump S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Minuteman T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mystery Route S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Neophyte Flight T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Overlord S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Petty Theft S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Spiny Trouble S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Swimmin' in Ignorance T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Temple, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Toddler S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Trimmed Bush T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown Leon S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Win, Lose, or Draw S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Bob Boyles, Mike Weber c.1975
Page Views: 331 total, 15/month
Shared By: Zach Weyn on Mar 2, 2016
Admins: WAGbag, Mike Engle

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures. Details

Description

This is the chimney to the right of Unknown Leon. There is nowhere good to place protection until you go above and stand on a small boulder wedged in the bottom of the chimney, which is about 15 ft up. There are a couple horizontal cracks after that, and after that there is a 20 ft blank section. I climbed facing away from the cliffs, and about 5 ft below the anchor was a pocket behind me that was deep enough to stuff a C3 into.

The chimney walls are well featured and offer very secure stances. Bring a solid mental game.

Protection

BD C4 Camalots #1 - 0.75 and a couple tip size cams. Bring 2-3 slings to extend some placements. Chains to anchors at top.

Photos

Old lady H
Boise, Idaho
 
Old lady H   Boise, Idaho
 
My partner hiked up and put up a top rope. That done, it's an easy chimney for beginners. Soggy if it's rained lately, though. Mar 12, 2016
Trevor.
Boise, ID
  5.7 X
Trevor.   Boise, ID
  5.7 X
May as well just go up with nothing but draws to clip the anchors, any pro you get is too low to do much of anything once you're off the ledge. It's really secure and easy chimneying though. Mar 2, 2016