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Routes in Short Cliffs

Angry Bunnies S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Aunt Fannie T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bag of Stems T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Basic Training T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Big Fat Crack T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bologna Pony S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Buster Bronco T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Copperhead T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Desperate Indulgence T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Falling Object T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
First Lead T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hex Breaker T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hilti Dust S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jump Chump S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Minuteman T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mystery Route S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Neophyte Flight T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Overlord S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Petty Theft S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Spiny Trouble S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Swimmin' in Ignorance T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Temple, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Toddler S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Trimmed Bush T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown Leon S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Win, Lose, or Draw S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: Fransen, Cahill 1996
Page Views: 256 total · 6/month
Shared By: C Hopwood on Oct 25, 2014
Admins: WAGbag, Mike Engle

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Description

Start by face climbing up towards a high first bolt. Place a few pieces of gear in a small crack before you reach the bolt. Clip two bolts, then pull onto a ledge under the roof. Lean back and clip your last bolt at the edge of the roof. Pull the roof on huge jugs but marginal feet to another ledge with the chains.

Location

Right side of the short cliffs. Just right of Minuteman. A small crack leads up towards a roof. You can see the obvious bolts with the last one at the edge of the roof. See pic.

Protection

3 bolts and small gear to chains. I used 0.1-0.4 C4s. Could also use nuts or other small cams.

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