Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Tom Mcleod ~1978
Page Views: 550 total · 9/month
Shared By: Cory Harelson on Sep 8, 2013
Admins: Mike Engle

You & This Route


14 Opinions

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Description

This is an excellent crack climb with great pro!

Start in a dihedral with a finger crack in the back. enjoy great fingers and stemming, until the crack widens to perfect hands under a roof. Pull the roof using finger locks and small edges for feet, and finish up an easier hand size crack to the anchors

Location

Towards the right end of the Short Cliffs. Look for a double dihedral capped by a roof about 30 feet up, about 50 feet right of Unknown Leon.

Protection

Gear from fingers to #2 camalot size. Two bolt anchor.

Photos

K Baumgartner
  5.9
K Baumgartner  
  5.9
Led to the roof and then went left (think that's the route? ).

If so, I thought this was a petty soft 10a for the Cliffs. Its neighbor Trimmed Bush is more sustained and has less feet features in the crux.

All in all though, a great climb. Oct 28, 2013
C Hopwood
Salt Lake City, UT
 
C Hopwood   Salt Lake City, UT
 
I jammed both cracks and hugged it to the top. You can lean out and stick a couple 0.5 C4s in the left crack, just over the roof, before you commit to the crux. Mar 23, 2015
Sean Sullivan
Boise, ID
Sean Sullivan   Boise, ID
Super fun lead. Good gear and good stances. You can set gear for the crux and then step down to rest before firing it. Jul 26, 2017