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Routes in Short Cliffs

Angry Bunnies S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Aunt Fannie T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bag of Stems T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Basic Training T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Big Fat Crack T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bologna Pony S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Buster Bronco T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Copperhead T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Desperate Indulgence T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Falling Object T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
First Lead T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hex Breaker T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hilti Dust S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jump Chump S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Minuteman T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mystery Route S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Neophyte Flight T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Overlord S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Petty Theft S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Spiny Trouble S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Swimmin' in Ignorance T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Temple, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Toddler S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Trimmed Bush T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown Leon S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Win, Lose, or Draw S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Tom Mcleod ~1978
Page Views: 453 total · 9/month
Shared By: Cory Harelson on Sep 8, 2013
Admins: WAGbag, Mike Engle

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Seasonal Raptor Closures. Details

Description

This is an excellent crack climb with great pro!

Start in a dihedral with a finger crack in the back. enjoy great fingers and stemming, until the crack widens to perfect hands under a roof. Pull the roof using finger locks and small edges for feet, and finish up an easier hand size crack to the anchors

Location

Towards the right end of the Short Cliffs. Look for a double dihedral capped by a roof about 30 feet up, about 50 feet right of Unknown Leon.

Protection

Gear from fingers to #2 camalot size. Two bolt anchor.

Photos

Sean Sullivan
Boise, ID
Sean Sullivan   Boise, ID
Super fun lead. Good gear and good stances. You can set gear for the crux and then step down to rest before firing it. Jul 26, 2017
C Hopwood
Salt Lake City, UT
 
C Hopwood   Salt Lake City, UT
 
I jammed both cracks and hugged it to the top. You can lean out and stick a couple 0.5 C4s in the left crack, just over the roof, before you commit to the crux. Mar 23, 2015
K Baumgartner
  5.9
K Baumgartner  
  5.9
Led to the roof and then went left (think that's the route? ).

If so, I thought this was a petty soft 10a for the Cliffs. Its neighbor Trimmed Bush is more sustained and has less feet features in the crux.

All in all though, a great climb. Oct 28, 2013