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Routes in East End Wall

Rusted Rapture T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Daywalker T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Death Dealer T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Experimental Forrest T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Golden Corner T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Helix T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nightwalker T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Pack Mentality T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Ultraviolet Ammunition T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: J Unema, B McCord, J Snyder
Page Views: 747 total, 19/month
Shared By: Joel Unema on Oct 9, 2014
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

While vampires are often brooding, solitary creatures, another type of mythical monster exists and runs in packs, the werewolf. This route demanded the strength and tenacity of the entire pack to reach completion. Upon first glance, the route appears featured and barely vertical... it looks easy. A second inspection reveals the desperately thin nature of the seam, the utter lack of positive holds, and the dearth of features for the feet.
A single hold defines the crux of Pack Mentality, but you'll get well aquainted with this hold as you use it in several different ways. Committing and improbable moves lead to much easier, but engaging and steep climbing in the second half.

Location

Pack Mentality shares a start with Nightwalker and traverses left along an obvious horizontal rail around 35 feet up. From here, it continues up the obvious thin seam, staying right of Rapture, and left of Nightwalker.
The route can also be started off the right side of the Rapture belay pillar.

Protection

This route was first freed with all natural protection, including several marginal loweballs protecting (or falling out) at the crux. After sending, the FA party added two bolts to protect the crux. Bring a double set of cams from 000 C3 to #.75 C4 with a healthy set of nuts.

Photos

JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
You boys sure are busy, and climbing well! Oct 9, 2014