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Routes in East End Wall

Rusted Rapture T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Daywalker T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Death Dealer T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Experimental Forrest T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Golden Corner T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Helix T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nightwalker T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Pack Mentality T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Ultraviolet Ammunition T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Flagstaff Oldschool, and Wade Forrest on the direct finish
Page Views: 806 total, 12/month
Shared By: Tradiban on May 28, 2012
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


17 Opinions

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Description

From across canyon this line is hard to miss on the climbers right side of the wall. It takes an obvious crack line up the left side of a large pillar formation. This physical pitch starts with an in your face hand crack crux past an OW pod (one bolt, 5.9+). Continue up the hand crack using the finger crack on the left when convenient. Eventually the pillar starts the get blocky, and this is your cue to start moving left. Traverses left to a boulder problem with two bolts and a surprisingly juggy finish.

Location

Climbers right of Rapture, rap in to an inside corner with a bolted belay. From the top there's a prow of rock sticking out, rap from the left side for Experimental Forrest (if looking out into the canyon) and the right side for Rapture.

Protection

Three bolts, a few hand size pieces and maybe a purple TCU to protect the traverse.
Jed G  
I think I climbed part of this route in 2008ish before the bolts. same start to top of hand crack then across the face to the left and into the right facing dihedral and crack which kept it at 5.9. We called it "Bat or Rattlesnake?" (just for reference) because of something that was making an unnerving rattling sound in the crack. I'm psyched to go back and try Experimental Forrest. Looks like an interesting variation! Sep 1, 2017
JMo
Tucson, AZ
 
JMo   Tucson, AZ
 
I love this climb. i'd just go ahead and bring singles plus what you want for 25 feet of hands. It protects like a dream. Description makes it sound like a couple 2's and a small cam will protect the 50 feet that are not bolted. You do the math. The grey rock and lateral movement on this climb and phantasm will inhabit your dreams. Sep 21, 2015
Yes, the easy finish had some potential loose stuff, take care when going that way.

Looks like some pretty sweet thin crack lines in between this and Rapture, any info on those? May 31, 2012
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
 
'Grey ghost' ha! Love it May 31, 2012
Wade Forrest  
 
I used a grey ghost with a purple tcu slotted on top of it to protect the traverse, makes it pretty bomber. I spent alot of time removing death blocks from the top of the pillar but did not clean what is referred to as the alternate finish. So heads up if choosing that path. I took the route left in order to create a clean, safe & varied experience. Thanks for posting! May 31, 2012
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
A good, physical line with an exciting finish. May 30, 2012