Type: Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: Flagstaff Oldschool, and Wade Forrest on the direct finish
Page Views: 1,361 total · 13/month
Shared By: Tradiban on May 28, 2012
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Brian Boyd

You & This Route


27 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
-none-

Description

From across canyon this line is hard to miss on the climbers right side of the wall. It takes an obvious crack line up the left side of a large pillar formation. This physical pitch starts with an in your face hand crack crux past an OW pod (one bolt, 5.9+). Continue up the hand crack using the finger crack on the left when convenient. Eventually the pillar starts the get blocky, and this is your cue to start moving left. Traverse left to a boulder problem with two bolts and a surprisingly juggy finish.

ExF Double Direct 5.11+. When the initial hand crack and finger crack diverge, stay with the finger crack. Beautiful climbing to a defined crux. Leads directly into the direct finish.

Location

Climbers right of Rapture, rap in to an inside corner with a bolted belay. From the top there's a prow of rock sticking out, rap from the left side for Experimental Forrest (if looking out into the canyon) and the right side for Rapture.

Protection

Three bolts, a few hand size pieces and maybe a purple TCU to protect the traverse.

Photos