Type: Trad, 90 ft (27 m)
FA: JJ Schlick 2011
Page Views: 3,530 total · 23/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Aug 13, 2011
Admins: Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

A Rusted Rapture is a stunning pitch with bullet rock bottom to top. This varied line serves up everything from bouldery face climbing to splitter cracks, as well as, the classic little traverse out the roof. Its one of the better basalt pitches around at the grade, but there is little standard jamming on it.

On the east edge of the East End Wall rappel 90’ down to a suspended boulder and a two bolt belay. A # 3.5 in a pod at the top of the route will keep your rope from getting wedged in the crack.

The first 15' of climbing off the belay is fantastic and a bit bouldery as you follow an arching seam with just enough holds to keep it in the 5.10 range. The bolts are there because the entire flake that you start on rings hollow with a gentle tap of a hammer. Once you start plugging gear in the thin crack, be sure to take advantage of the best placements when you see them. Continue up the thin crack past several boulder problems to a break at mid height. Enjoy the next 35' of twin cracks which is like a really featured cousin of Torpedo at the Forks. The roof may look intimidating at first glance, but the traverse and turning the roof add up to be about 5.9+ climbing, and the exposure is heavenly... For a basalt canyon anyway.

Location Suggest change

Climber’s left side of the East End Wall.

Protection Suggest change

2 bolts at the start. Double set from #00 TCU through #.75 Camalot, or a triple set to sew it up. A #1 Camalot, a #3.5 Camalot (for the very last piece), small/ medium wires. Several long runners.

Photos

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