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Routes in 1. East End Wall

A Rusted Rapture T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Christmas in July T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Daywalker T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Death Dealer T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Experimental Forrest T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Golden Corner T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Helix T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nightwalker T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Pack Mentality T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Ultraviolet Ammunition T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
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Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: JJ Schlick 2011
Page Views: 1,894 total · 22/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Aug 13, 2011
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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25 Opinions

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Description

A Rusted Rapture is a stunning pitch with bullet rock bottom to top. This varied line serves up everything from bouldery face climbing to splitter cracks, as well as, the classic little traverse out the roof. Its one of the better basalt pitches around at the grade, but there is not a ton of standard jamming on it.

On the east edge of the East End Wall rappel 90’ down to a suspended boulder and a two bolt belay. A # 3.5 will keep your rope from getting wedged in the crack. 

The first 15' of climbing off the belay is fantastic and a bit bouldery as you follow an arching seam with just enough holds to keep it in the 5.10 range. Once you start plugging gear in the thin crack, be sure to take advantage of the best placements when you see them. Continue up the thin crack past several boulder problems to a break at mid height. Enjoy the next 35' of twin cracks which is like a really featured cousin of Torpedo at the Forks. The roof may look intimidating at first glance, but the traverse and turning the roof add up to be about 5.9+ climbing, and the exposure is heavenly... For a basalt canyon anyway.

Location

Far climber's left of the East End Wall.

Protection

Double set from #00TCU through #.75 Camalot, or a triple set to sew it up. A #1 Camalot, a #3.5 Camalot (for the very last piece), small/ medium wires. Draws and several long runners.
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Wonderful route with mix of thoughtful and hero climbing! Jun 7, 2013
Robbie Brown
the road
  5.10
Robbie Brown   the road
  5.10
Felt a touch soft for 10+ but a great pitch nun the less. The end will make you smile! Jun 9, 2013
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
  5.10
Aye, we did it this morning for our warm up, and I didn't come across any .10+ either. Which almost makes it better... Jun 9, 2013
Nick Dolhyj 1
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10
Nick Dolhyj 1   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10
definitely my new favorite 10. just so much fun and it all flows really well Aug 16, 2015
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
  5.10
Due to the little roof this line doesn’t see much water run off. Wade cleaned a huge mess of bat shit off the middle break today. If you’re going down to do this thing bring a toothbrush and help keep the line clean. A minute of brushing goes a long way. Jun 23, 2018

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