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Routes in Exploding Galaxy Wall

Dragon T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: A C Wilmott, M Putnam, June 1972
Page Views: 24 total · 1/month
Shared By: Nick Russell on Aug 21, 2014
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron

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Description [Suggest Change]

Two contrasting pitches. The first pitch is technically quite easy, but possibly the more serious of the two owing to the quality of the rock: soft doesn't cover it! Pitch 2 is harder, but beyond a necky move near the start, frequent fixed gear provides encouragement.

About 15m up the hillside is a right-trending ramp leading to a large flake. Start at the base of the ramp, on a good sized flat ledge.

P1, 45m. Follow the ramp to its end, thus gaining the flake. Climb the flake, with disappointing gear and disconcerting rock, until on a level with an iron spike on the right. Trend rightwards, passing the spike, to a ledge below a borehole. Clip a peg high in the borehole and start an uneasy traverse leftwards on sandy rock, to a large niche. Now mount the protruding block in the centre of the niche and continue direct until a step left around the arete is necessary. From here, easier ground leads to a 3-bolt belay anchor.

P2, 25m. Follow the right-trending ramp above the anchor to a bulge at its end. Now engage in a tricky (and pitifully protected) sequence to surmount the bulge and step left to the first of the fixed pitons. Climb direct up good edges, passing another 2 pitons to a horizontal break. A few moves left, past the final piton gain easier ground. Care is required with loose blocks on the topout. Belay well back on the railings.

Location [Suggest Change]

About 15m up the hillside, up the right-trending ramp.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Not much of value on the first pitch, 3-bolt anchor at the top. The second pitch is mostly protected by 4 fixed pitons, though a few wires can supplement these. Double ropes are required for the first pitch.


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