All Locations > International > Europe > United Kingdom > England > South West > Avon Gorge > Exploding Galaxy Wall
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|Type:||Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||A C Wilmott, M Putnam, June 1972|
|Page Views:||23 total · 1/month|
|Shared By:||Nick Russell on Aug 21, 2014|
|Admins:||Chris Owen, Euan Cameron|
DescriptionTwo contrasting pitches. The first pitch is technically quite easy, but possibly the more serious of the two owing to the quality of the rock: soft doesn't cover it! Pitch 2 is harder, but beyond a necky move near the start, frequent fixed gear provides encouragement.
About 15m up the hillside is a right-trending ramp leading to a large flake. Start at the base of the ramp, on a good sized flat ledge.
P1, 45m. Follow the ramp to its end, thus gaining the flake. Climb the flake, with disappointing gear and disconcerting rock, until on a level with an iron spike on the right. Trend rightwards, passing the spike, to a ledge below a borehole. Clip a peg high in the borehole and start an uneasy traverse leftwards on sandy rock, to a large niche. Now mount the protruding block in the centre of the niche and continue direct until a step left around the arete is necessary. From here, easier ground leads to a 3-bolt belay anchor.
P2, 25m. Follow the right-trending ramp above the anchor to a bulge at its end. Now engage in a tricky (and pitifully protected) sequence to surmount the bulge and step left to the first of the fixed pitons. Climb direct up good edges, passing another 2 pitons to a horizontal break. A few moves left, past the final piton gain easier ground. Care is required with loose blocks on the topout. Belay well back on the railings.
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