Dragon

UK E3 5c

Two contrasting pitches. The first pitch is technically quite easy, but possibly the more serious of the two owing to the quality of the rock: soft doesn't cover it! Pitch 2 is harder, but beyond a necky move near the start, frequent fixed gear provides encouragement.

About 15m up the hillside is a right-trending ramp leading to a large flake. Start at the base of the ramp, on a good sized flat ledge.

P1, 45m (5b). Follow the ramp to its end, thus gaining the flake. Climb the flake, with disappointing gear and disconcerting rock, until on a level with an iron spike on the right. Trend rightwards, passing the spike, to a ledge below a borehole. Clip a peg high in the borehole and start an uneasy traverse leftwards on sandy rock, to a large niche. Now mount the protruding block in the centre of the niche and continue direct until a step left around the arete is necessary (or, as per the original line, charge directly up/right over the bulge to another slot). From here, easier ground leads to a 3-bolt belay anchor.

P2, 25m (5c). Follow the right-trending ramp above the anchor to a bulge at its end. Now engage in a tricky (and pitifully protected) sequence to surmount the bulge and step left to the first of the fixed pitons. Climb direct up good edges, passing another 2 pitons to a horizontal break. A few moves left, past the final piton gain easier ground. Care is required with loose blocks on the topout. Belay well back on the railings.

About 15m up the hillside, up the right-trending ramp.

Not much of value on the first pitch, 3-bolt anchor at the top. The second pitch is mostly protected by 4 fixed pitons, though a few wires can supplement these. Double ropes are required for the first pitch.