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Routes in Shady Rock

Bad Influence S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cotton Mouth S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Dog Breath T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Herpes Simplex S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Shady Rock Traverse V2 5+
Slot Nose S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Small Man Complex S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Special Effects S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tall Man Simplex S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 383 total, 10/month
Shared By: Peter V Braun on Aug 19, 2014
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. Details

Description

This is a fun short bouldery climb, with the real climbing down low, moving underneath and over the roof. The crux is at the second bolt, either right before or right after clipping, depending on your beta.

Location

Starts just to the right of Tall Man Simplex, at the right end of the huge roof. Traverse left under the roof to a bolt near some pockets.

Protection

3 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor

Photos

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Mike Ferrell
San Francisco, CA
  5.11a/b
Mike Ferrell   San Francisco, CA
  5.11a/b
This climb didn't seem dramatically more difficult than Tall Man Simplex right next to it, probably only a few grades tougher. Definitely recommend top roping first or stick clipping the 2nd bolt, since the first bolt won't do much for you if you fall coming up onto the face.

Both Herpes Simplex and Tall Man Simplex are worth checking out on Shady Rock if you like bouldering, but also want to clip a draw or two. Oct 3, 2016