Elevation: 3,023 ft
GPS: 37.227, -122.101 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 16,201 total · 75/month
Shared By: Morgan Brown on Jul 28, 2002 with improvements by Lukas Wiborg
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. Details

Description

Shady Rock is a neat little ship of a rock, hidden deep under the forest canopy, but planted on the edge of Stevens Creek Canyon, with big views to the south and west.

In Bruce Morris's guidebook, "Climber's Guide to Skyline Boulevard", Shady Rock is divided into a west side and east side. The west side is preferable, with clean, pocketed, near-vertical sandstone and four bolted routes in the 5.8-5.10 range. The rock on the east side appears much dirtier. It is crumbly and predominantly overhanging. The routes here are 5.10-5.11.

A boulder traverse (left to right) of the entire rock is rated 5.11. Again, the portion on the west side is cleaner, easier, and in my opinion, more fun!

Getting There

Easiest access is via the main Castle Rock State Park parking lot. Proceed down the Saratoga Gap trail for approximately 0.25 miles. On the right, you'll see a signed trail directing you to "Castle Rock 0.3 miles". In fact, it is MUCH further to Castle Rock itself, but you don't care.

Continue uphill on this trail for approximately 0.25 miles. On the right, note a climber's trail with a log across it, and a sign discouraging you from using it (it says "trail" with an arrow pointing you away from it). Continue for 0.1 miles. You'll come to a small "meadow" with three possible trails. Continue slightly left and uphill. On your left, you'll see a large rock, called "Chew Tooth". Keep going uphill for another 0.2 miles. You'll see a nice overlook ahead, and a seeming dead end. Shady Rock is hidden on the right. You will also be able to see Platypus Rock on your right as you head to shady rock.

10 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Shady Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V2 5+
 3
Shady Rock Traverse
Boulder
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 42
Special Effects
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
 18
Cotton Mouth
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 42
Tall Man Simplex
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 6
Herpes Simplex
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Shady Rock Traverse
 3
V2 5+ Boulder
Special Effects
 42
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Cotton Mouth
 18
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Sport
Tall Man Simplex
 42
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Herpes Simplex
 6
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Shady Rock »

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