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> Shady Rock
Slot Nose
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 1.8 from 50
votes
Routes in Shady Rock
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Bad Influence S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Cotton Mouth S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Dog Breath T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Herpes Simplex S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Shady Rock Traverse V2 5+ |
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Slot Nose S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Small Man Complex S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Special Effects S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tall Man Simplex S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Tree Killer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Sport, 30 ft (9 m) |
| GPS: | 37.22654, -122.10116 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 3,422 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Morgan Brown on Aug 30, 2002 · Updates |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am.
Details
Trails close at sunset. Give yourself enough time to be back at your vehicle (or campsite if you're staying at one) before dark, or the rangers will fine you.
Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.
Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.
Description
This is the rightmost route on the west side of Shady Rock. Bruce Morris's guidebook has a good topo. Crux is just below the first bolt; a fairly tricky mantle. Climb left from the first bolt, up 5.4 rock, then ascend the eponymous "slot" just below the anchor. An arm-bar may be useful here.
Variation: From the first bolt, climb left and ascend the obvious arete to the anchor. Probably goes about 5.9. It's tricky to clip the bolt when leading this variation.
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