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Routes in Shady Rock

Bad Influence S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cotton Mouth S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Dog Breath T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Herpes Simplex S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Shady Rock Traverse V2 5+
Slot Nose S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Small Man Complex S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Special Effects S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tall Man Simplex S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,483 total · 8/month
Shared By: Morgan Brown on Aug 30, 2002 with updates
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. Details

Description

This is the rightmost route on the west side of Shady Rock. Bruce Morris's guidebook has a good topo. Crux is just below the first bolt; a fairly tricky mantle. Climb left from the first bolt, up 5.4 rock, then ascend the eponymous "slot" just below the anchor. An arm-bar may be useful here.

Variation: From the first bolt, climb left and ascend the obvious arete to the anchor. Probably goes about 5.9. It's tricky to clip the bolt when leading this variation.

Protection

Two bolts on route, two-bolt anchor. Warning: one bolt has a rappel ring. Nobody likes to rap from one bolt -- can someone put some new hardware up there? I equalized the rig with a biner, but someone took it.

Protection update: There are two rappel rings, not one. (4/24/2016)

Photos

Michael Hase
St. Louis
 
Michael Hase   St. Louis
 
Bolts and rappel rings are in good shape Jan 10, 2018
Mike Deitchman
Boulder, CO
  5.8
Mike Deitchman   Boulder, CO
  5.8
This was my first lead, back in 1995. It's kind of a waste of bolts, but is worth doing if you're walking by. Dec 27, 2016
ToDoubleD Whitney
Aptos, CA
ToDoubleD Whitney   Aptos, CA
All bolts are in good shape as of today and the rappel rings are brand new. Apr 14, 2014