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Routes in Shady Rock

Bad Influence S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cotton Mouth S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Dog Breath T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Herpes Simplex S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Shady Rock Traverse V2 5+
Slot Nose S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Small Man Complex S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Special Effects S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tall Man Simplex S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,050 total, 6/month
Shared By: Morgan Brown on Aug 31, 2002
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. Details

Description

This route is next to "Special Effects" on Shady Rock's west face. Enjoy 20 feet of 5.6 hand work in trademark Castle Rock caves and flakes. The first bolt is quite high. The second is just below a cave which is under the prominent bulge which crosses the entire rock. There are numerous opportunities to place medium cams or slot medium-to-large nuts on the way up. The crux is just below the anchor. Try to lieback a right-facing corner, and have faith as you reach up for high hands. They're not quite "thank god" pockets, but they're a helluva lot better than nothing. This route would definitely be rated 5.9 at many other areas.

Protection

Two bolts on route, two bolt anchor. First bolt is about 15' up; you can tie off a runner to buckethandles down low.

Photos

Lukas Wiborg
Boulder, CO
Lukas Wiborg   Boulder, CO
Luckily the climbing to the first bolt is fairly easy but it is still a good idea at least to have a spotter. Jul 7, 2016
RR
RR  
A #3 BD C4 (#2 may have been slightly better) fits in a hueco/pocket nicely near where the first bolt USED to be (as illustrated in Thornburg's guide) Jul 14, 2014