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Routes in Shady Rock

Bad Influence S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cotton Mouth S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Dog Breath T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Herpes Simplex S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Shady Rock Traverse V2 5+
Slot Nose S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Small Man Complex S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Special Effects S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tall Man Simplex S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,384 total · 59/month
Shared By: Aleksei Potov on Jun 17, 2013 with updates
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. Details

Description

This a fun little roof route on the east side of Shady rock. It is hard to reach the first bolt for shorter climbers, hence the name, due to bad feet early on and a necessary reach over the edge. Crux is turning from the overhang to the face.

Location

Start in front of the cave with first bolt right above you.

Protection

Two bolts. Bolted anchor with screw links on top. Watch the tree if you swing out of the cave. Can be toproped but really watch out for the swing then.

Photos

Bruce Morris
Belmont, CA
Bruce Morris   Belmont, CA
FA: Brad Watson 1992 4 days ago
Mike Deitchman
Boulder, CO
  5.10c
Mike Deitchman   Boulder, CO
  5.10c
This is the rare route that's easier to skip the first bolt than to clip it. Pausing at the lip of the roof to clip that bolt is the crux on lead. Dec 27, 2016
Alex Lloyd
Bozeman, MT
  5.10b
Alex Lloyd   Bozeman, MT
  5.10b
Great bouldery crux down low. Really well protected. Right bolt at the anchors wiggles a bit. Jul 13, 2016

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