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Routes in Shady Rock
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Bad Influence S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Cotton Mouth S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Dog Breath T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Herpes Simplex S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Shady Rock Traverse V2 5+ |
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Slot Nose S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Small Man Complex S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Special Effects S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tall Man Simplex S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Tree Killer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 30 ft (9 m) |
| FA: | Brad Watson (TR) 12/11/91 |
| Page Views: | 1,048 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | p m on Jul 13, 2015 · Updates |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am.
Details
Trails close at sunset. Give yourself enough time to be back at your vehicle (or campsite if you're staying at one) before dark, or the rangers will fine you.
Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.
Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.
Description
Climbed this with 2 others and we each did it a different way, so the rating is for my path. Crux was going straight up over the slight "overhang". Sub 5'9" might have a hard time reaching above to jam in the crack. My two partners went right just under the overhang and around a "block" to the huecos, which looked difficult and awkward in it's own way. Looked like some decent placements for trad, however, the rock was crumbly where you would want pro for the crux, so I would recommend TR first and scout it out yourself.
Location
Just R of "Bad Influence". Stay between the arete on bad influence and L of the "block/fin" mentioned above. Either go straight up and then traverse right, or traverse right under the overhang and around the block/fin. Bolts are above the ladder on top of the rock which you cannot see from the ground. Set up TR just like all other routes.
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