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Routes in Middle Mother's

Beyer's Rib T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Brevity T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Centurion T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Connotation T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Coxswain T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Days of Wine and Roses T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Definite Article T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Denotation T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Denouement T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dirty Harry T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Double Reach Around, The T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dreamscape T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Drive-by Diking T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
First Impressions T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Flora Dora T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Free Falling T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Indirect Objects T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Iron Maiden T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Jagged Edge T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Jenny-Lynn's Special T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
No Name 1 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
No Name 2 S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
No Name 3 T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
No Name 4 T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Ol' Hucklebuck, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
On Golden Pond T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rise of the Phoenix T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Scanners T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Under the Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wandering Charm T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 345 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Randall Chapman, Robert Rowsam, Fritz Nuffer
Page Views: 1,977 total · 37/month
Shared By: Rschap on Jun 18, 2014
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Pitch 1: 5.4 climbing up a corner with good pro and fun movement. The pitch ends on a big ledge 35 meters up. There is no bolted anchor for this belay but plenty of options for building one.

Pitch 2: climb up the small, blocky, 5.7 overhang with good pro. We used the left crack next to a bush to pull the overhang. Finish on a big ledge about 35 meters up. There is a bolted belay that is the middle rap anchor and is shared with Scanners.

Pitch 3: there are multiple options to a big tree and the end of the climb. The pro is a little trickier on this pitch. There is a bolted belay at the beginning of the rappel. This is about 20 yards shy of the top of the cliff, but it's a class 3 scramble to the top from there.

Location

This route lies on the slab 10-15 feet to the right of the rappel for the routes on Upper Mothers in the gully that separates Middle and Upper Mothers.

To reach it, hike the main trail from the parking lot up to Upper Mothers then head up the gully. The route starts in the first left-facing corner to the right of the chimney that has some huge tat slung chockstones for the decent.

There is a bolted rappel that can be done in 3 raps with a single 70 meter or 2 60 meter ropes. The rappel starts at the top of the third pitch.

Protection

Standard rack up to #4 Camalot.

Photos

Zak Munro
VT,CO, Bar Harbor ME
 
Zak Munro   VT,CO, Bar Harbor ME
 
Once this gets cleaned up, it will be nice. Apr 23, 2015
Hannah12 Miller
Boulder, CO
 
Hannah12 Miller   Boulder, CO
 
I dislodged a large block (3-4 feet long by 1 foot wide?) about 10 feet above the second belay station on 5/24/16 that nearly hit my partner down at the belay. My partner also threw a basketball-sized rock from the 2nd pitch...this route needs cleaning. Thankfully no one was below us in the gully. May 24, 2016
Rschap
Grand Junction, CO
  5.7
Rschap   Grand Junction, CO
  5.7
I’m sorry for your experience, and I’m glad no one was hurt. This route was put up on a ground up ascent, and it was Fritz and Robert’s first ground up FA. As a first ascensionist, I always make efforts to clean as much of the loose rock as I can to make the route as safe as possible, but sometimes rock isn’t loose at the time, is off route enough to where I feel it won’t cause a problem, and sometimes it’s just not seen. I did rap the route a few days after it was put up and clean a bunch of loose rock, but I may have missed some. I am out of town and won’t be back around till sometime next year, but the next time I’m able, I will go rap the route again and see if more cleaning needs to be done.

It should be noted that for all of the development that has been done here, Unaweep is still adventure climbing. The canyon doesn’t see the traffic that some of the more popular crags see, and it takes time and multiply ascents to get a route completely clean. That said, I’m out in California right now, and I’ve been climbing a bit at Tahquitz, one of the oldest crags in the US. Rockfall is a regular occurrence here, and it takes the life of people every few years it seems. I’m just saying it might be a never ending battle, and the routes may never be completely safe, but that doesn’t mean we should try.

I hope this experience doesn’t discourage you from climbing in the canyon, Unaweep is an amazing place, and the WCCC has done a lot of hard work to keep it open for all to enjoy. I hope everyone is doing what they can to mitigate risk while climbing here, wear a helmet, stay on route, try to avoid climbing below another party, and try to avoid touching loose rock, etc.

Cheers,
Randall Chapman Nov 4, 2016
Fritz Nuffer
The Western Slope
  5.7
Fritz Nuffer   The Western Slope
  5.7
I revisited this four and a half years later after the FA. It's cleaned up really nicely. Save a #0.4 and #2 for the third pitch; you'll know when to place them. Quite safe, great first multi-pitch, very easy climbing but not boring. The P2 roof-ette is quite enjoyable. Stretch P2 to the bolted anchor. A single sixty will get you down. Oct 29, 2018

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