Type: Trad, 345 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Randall Chapman and Mickey Guziak
Page Views: 1,276 total · 22/month
Shared By: Randall Chapman on Jun 21, 2014
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Pitch 1: Mixed pitch that is mostly bolted but has a few places for gear. The crux is about 5.7 and protects well with gear, weird balance move to the left of the shallow crack. I've protected the crux with BD cams but the Metolius cams fit better. Bolted anchor at a nice ledge that is also the last rappel anchor. If you have two ropes you can skip this anchor and rappel all the way to the ground from the top of the second pitch.

Pitch 2: Trad pitch with one bolt. From the anchor, move left on the ledge a few feet to a crack that will be out of reach for most, make some weird slab and stem moves to the left to get up higher to reach the crack then traverse back into it. Sucks if your short but if you're over 6' you can place a #3 BD before making the weird moves. Once in the crack follow it up till it peters out and you cross a different band of rock as the crack goes away. If you look up from here you'll see the only bolt of the pitch and the 5.8 crux of the route. Move directly up from the bolt into another crack with mostly good gear (one tricky piece at the Y), the crack peters out again as the route turns from slab to the ledge where you'll find the two bolt anchor that is shared with Dreamscape.

Pitch 3: The rock quality degrades a little on this pitch as happens in Unaweep sometimes. The gear is much more cryptic and the route meanders a little. There are multiple options but the easiest line I've found goes up right to the small tree from the anchor, I sling the tree and there is a place for a smaller piece of gear, I want to say .3. From here I move up to a crack directly above but I don't climb the crack i stay on the small ledges to the left and use the crack for pro and sometimes hands. Gear here goes 1,1,3 BD and the first 1 is tricky but it goes in. After placing the #3 I head left a little more staying well below the tree till I'm on the ledge the tree is growing out of. I sling the tree as I head left of it and sling the next tree as I move left around and then on top of it. This puts you in an alcove and I move to the right and place a .5 or .75 BD in a mostly horizontal diagonal crack on the right wall just below the bush. I put a double shoulder sling for rope run and I climb just to the left of the bush humping the rock a few times. From here stay to the right and do some more rock humping while pulling on jugs with tricky gear but a lot of options. There is a bolted belay and the beginning of the rappel. Doing it exactly this way feels about 5.6 but there are a lot of harder options along the way. The anchor is about 20 yards shy of the top of the cliff, and it's a 5.0- scramble to the top from here. Supper easy moves but if you slip it could be disaster, there is a large tree to sling if you prefer to lead it.

Pitch 3 is worth doing but a newer trad leader might struggle to find the best placements. I wrote this more detailed description in response to some feed back from beginners that the pitch is run out. If you are new to leading trad maybe skip this pitch and come back to it after you feel more comfortable with route finding and placing gear. I feel the first two pitches of both of these routes are great for beginners and this is my go to for bring someone for their first multi pitch. The last pitch is trickier and is a good opportunity to challenge your skills, it has a lot of fun easy movement and is well worth doing. Gear sizes are approximate (my memory really isn't that good) but 1,1,3,tree,tree should be accurate in the beginning to middle of the pitch.  

Location

The route starts 10-15 yards to the left of Dreamscape.

Rap the route.

Protection

Standard rack up to #4 BD.

Photos

Randall Chapman
Grand Junction, CO
  5.8
Randall Chapman   Grand Junction, CO
  5.8
I originally set up the rappel with a 70m rope and stopped at natural ledges. I just rapped with my new 60m rope, and it’s almost exactly 30m from anchor to anchor. So don’t attempt with a 60m if you’ve cut any of it, and make sure you tie a knot in the ends. That said, a full 60m got us to the ground in 3 raps. 7 days ago
Try Cam
Ft. Wayne, IN
 
Try Cam   Ft. Wayne, IN
 
You’re not going to find better 5.7 granite than these first two pitches. Best beginner multi around. P3 has cleaned up. 5 days ago