Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Greg Barnes, George Ridgley, 8/2012
Page Views: 369 total · 6/month
Shared By: Greg Barnes on Jun 18, 2014
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

Steep crack to face start, leading to cool features, and finishing up with a slick low-angle water chute. Bolted anchor.

Optional second pitch starts with a traverse to a knobby 5.5 face (no pro, 40') and finishes with a few 5.7 moves into a corner (bomber gear) which ends at the far right side of the giant ledge where Sleeper and other routes start.

Location

Starts just right of Old Goats, pretty much exactly where the "3rd" with arrow is in the Reid/Falkenstein guide (this is an error, the 3rd class approach is up the ramp to the left). After the 4th bolt moves to the right with small cams in flakes, then back left. Bolted anchor at 140'. You can just lower with a 70m rope to the big ledge up and right of the start of the route (3rd class). Use knots!

Protection

8 bolts, pro to 3", mostly for handcrack start, but also thin cams for between the 4th and 5th bolt. Second pitch needs a few pieces of thin/medium gear for pro and anchor. At the request of shorter friends, I replaced the crux (first) bolt with 2 bolts, since the original was quite reachy (despite being hand drilled while rope-soloing!).

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