Avg: 3.8 from 257 votes
|Type:||Trad, 4 pitches|
|FA:||Brossman & Stephans - 1974|
|Page Views:||26,351 total · 158/month|
|Shared By:||Josh Janes on Sep 21, 2006|
|Admins:||M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure page at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warning due to current fires, smoke, etc.
The feature appears to be an enormous horizontal dike that has split apart to form an incut crack.
P1: Ascend a 5.0 low angle crack system to a nice ledge at the start of the traverse.
P2: Climb off to the right at 5.4 with minimal gear to the beginning of the crack itself. Stretch the rope out and belay at the best stance you can find.
P3: Traverse right. Save small cams for the crux. Belay after turning the corner into a right-facing dihedral, or stretch the rope further to a better stance.
P4: Continue traversing right and eventually end up on easy terrain leading to the descent. Alternatively, climb the excellent Jailbreak Finish, or reverse the entire traverse for more fun.
Finding the route is somewhat difficult (moreso than most other climbs in the Meadows). It's good to do this climb with someone who's been there before, or allow extra time to locate the start.