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Routes in West Face of the Lamb
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Chute Me T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Five Ten, You Wuss T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Ground Effects S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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I Don't Know T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Jailbreak Finish T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lampoon T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X |
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Little Sheba Continuation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Little Sheeba T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Lurk-Life Balance T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Nerve Wrack Point T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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On the Lamb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Silent Shout S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Sleeper T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Tectonomagmatic T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tooled S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 4 pitches |
| FA: | Bruce Brossman, Drone Stephens 7/1974 |
| Page Views: | 34,442 total · 153/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Janes on Sep 21, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
On the Lamb is a very unique and classic traverse across the upper face of Lamb Dome. Perhaps the only climb in Tuolumne where 95% of the holds are jugs. What makes it difficult is that occasionally the feet disappear.
The feature appears to be an enormous horizontal dike that has split apart to form an incut crack.
P1: Ascend a 5.0 low angle crack system to a nice ledge at the start of the traverse.
P2: Climb off to the right at 5.4 with minimal gear to the beginning of the crack itself. Stretch the rope out and belay at the best stance you can find.
P3: Traverse right. Save small cams for the crux. Belay after turning the corner into a right-facing dihedral, or stretch the rope further to a better stance.
P4: Continue traversing right and eventually end up on easy terrain leading to the descent. Alternatively, climb the excellent Jailbreak Finish, or reverse the entire traverse for more fun.
Finding the route is somewhat difficult (moreso than most other climbs in the Meadows). It's good to do this climb with someone who's been there before, or allow extra time to locate the start.
The feature appears to be an enormous horizontal dike that has split apart to form an incut crack.
P1: Ascend a 5.0 low angle crack system to a nice ledge at the start of the traverse.
P2: Climb off to the right at 5.4 with minimal gear to the beginning of the crack itself. Stretch the rope out and belay at the best stance you can find.
P3: Traverse right. Save small cams for the crux. Belay after turning the corner into a right-facing dihedral, or stretch the rope further to a better stance.
P4: Continue traversing right and eventually end up on easy terrain leading to the descent. Alternatively, climb the excellent Jailbreak Finish, or reverse the entire traverse for more fun.
Finding the route is somewhat difficult (moreso than most other climbs in the Meadows). It's good to do this climb with someone who's been there before, or allow extra time to locate the start.
Photos
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