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Routes in Lamb Dome

Chute Me T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Five Ten, You Wuss T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ground Effects S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jailbreak Finish T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jog Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lambda, Lambda, Lambda T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Lampoon T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Left North Book T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Little Sheba Continuation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Little Sheeba T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nerve Wrack Point T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
On the Lamb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Right North Book T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Silent Shout S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sleeper T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Tectonomagmatic T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tony's Pony T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: Bryan Law and Greg Barnes
Page Views: 160 total, 5/month
Shared By: Michael Schneiter on Jun 27, 2015
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Tectonomagmatic is a good approach pitch to Five Ten, You Wuss. It is a long face climb with some classic Tuolumne knob and slab climbing that is mostly well protected but also features some good runouts to keep you excited. Rated 10b in the guidebook, we thought it was pretty hard for the grade.

Start by climbing into the scoop, placing some gear and then clipping several bolts with some tricky and hard climbing about 1/3 up the pitch. Above, the difficulty eases as you continue clipping bolts. You finish at a ledge with a two bolt anchor down and right or a two bolt anchor up and left.

Location

Left of Five Ten, You Wuss, this climb starts where a small, scooping ledge feature sits 10 feet above the start. This is easily surpassed and above you can place the first gear behind this feature and then above in a crack/flake feature before clipping the first of several bolts.

Protection

9 draws, small to medium size cams and maybe some nuts.

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