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Routes in Lamb Dome

Chute Me T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Five Ten, You Wuss T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ground Effects S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jailbreak Finish T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jog Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lambda, Lambda, Lambda T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Lampoon T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Left North Book T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Little Sheba Continuation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Little Sheeba T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nerve Wrack Point T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
On the Lamb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Right North Book T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Silent Shout S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sleeper T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Tectonomagmatic T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tony's Pony T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Tom Higgins and Pat Ament 6/71
Page Views: 228 total, 8/month
Shared By: Bruce Hildenbrand on Aug 18, 2015
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

This is the route whose FA was chronicled in Pat Ament's book Swaramandal. It ascends the right side of the most prominent face on the west-facing side of Lamb Dome.

Pitch 1 - climb over a small overlap(used to be a fixed pin here) then head up and right past several bolts to a ledge and a gear belay. This pitch used to be rated 5.8, but is now, more appropriately, rated 5.9.

Pitch 2 - climb up a small right facing corner then up a face past two bolts to a two bolt belay. There is another set of belay bolts off to the right about halfway up this pitch. I am not sure what they are doing out there.

Pitch 3 - up a short face(5.8) to a crack leading sharply right which is followed to the end of the climb.

Location

This route starts about 1/2 of the way up the ramp that separates the main face with the wall containing Little Sheba on the right. There is a very prominent swale on the face above. Start almost directly below the crest of the swale.

From the top of the climb either walk off down and right or continue up to On the Lamb for a full pleasure outing.

Protection

Take a rack of stoppers and cams to 2".

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