Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Greg Barnes, Bryan Law, George Ridgley
Page Views: 664 total · 9/month
Shared By: Hamik Mukelyan on Aug 25, 2012
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

A new slab/face route on the far left side of Lamb Dome. This climb can be used as a more interesting approach to On the Lamb. Go to the left side of Lamb Dome and identify a right-facing corner; this is Dukey Corner (10a R), and our climb is left of it. Identify two black water streaks. Five Ten, You Wuss goes up the right one. P1 is 10c, p2 is 5.8, and p3 is 10a.

Protection

There are 7 bolts on the first pitch, atop which there is a two-bolt anchor with rings. The next pitch has one bolt and goes up a shallow, right-facing corner. It's a very short pitch. Go left at a ledge at the top of the dihedral and belay on gear. The third pitch had 7 or 8 bolts and had a two-bolt anchor with rings. One more short pitch from the end of the third takes you to On the Lamb.

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What did you think on the rating?

The reason I ask is that last year someone told me that they'd broken a key knob up high and found it to be 5.11 with the knob missing. Aug 27, 2012
Hamik Mukelyan
San Francisco, CA
  5.10c
Hamik Mukelyan   San Francisco, CA
  5.10c
I think the rating was fair for Tuolumne slab climbing. Besides, the title says it's 5.10! :-) Nov 9, 2012
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
I was pretty sure we were on the third pitch of Five Ten, You Wuss, after climbing Tectonomagmtic. Where I had issue was: Following the topo in the 2nd edition Super Topo book shows that after you climb past the line of bolts up the face you go straight up to the loose block at the base of the right facing corner. Instead, I found that you need to traverse 20-25 feet to the right after the last bolt on the face to find that corner. Jun 27, 2015