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Routes in Lamb Dome

Chute Me T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Five Ten, You Wuss T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ground Effects S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jailbreak Finish T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jog Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lambda, Lambda, Lambda T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Lampoon T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Left North Book T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Little Sheba Continuation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Little Sheeba T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nerve Wrack Point T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
On the Lamb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Right North Book T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Silent Shout S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sleeper T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Tectonomagmatic T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tony's Pony T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Greg Barnes, Bryan Law, George Ridgley
Page Views: 568 total, 9/month
Shared By: Hamik Mukelyan on Aug 25, 2012
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

A new slab/face route on the far left side of Lamb Dome. This climb can be used as a more interesting approach to On the Lamb. Go to the left side of Lamb Dome and identify a right-facing corner; this is Dukey Corner (10a R), and our climb is left of it. Identify two black water streaks. Five Ten, You Wuss goes up the right one. P1 is 10c, p2 is 5.8, and p3 is 10a.

Protection

There are 7 bolts on the first pitch, atop which there is a two-bolt anchor with rings. The next pitch has one bolt and goes up a shallow, right-facing corner. It's a very short pitch. Go left at a ledge at the top of the dihedral and belay on gear. The third pitch had 7 or 8 bolts and had a two-bolt anchor with rings. One more short pitch from the end of the third takes you to On the Lamb.

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Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
I was pretty sure we were on the third pitch of Five Ten, You Wuss, after climbing Tectonomagmtic. Where I had issue was: Following the topo in the 2nd edition Super Topo book shows that after you climb past the line of bolts up the face you go straight up to the loose block at the base of the right facing corner. Instead, I found that you need to traverse 20-25 feet to the right after the last bolt on the face to find that corner. Jun 27, 2015
Hamik Mukelyan
San Francisco, CA
 
Hamik Mukelyan   San Francisco, CA
 
I think the rating was fair for Tuolumne slab climbing. Besides, the title says it's 5.10! :-) Nov 9, 2012
What did you think on the rating?

The reason I ask is that last year someone told me that they'd broken a key knob up high and found it to be 5.11 with the knob missing. Aug 27, 2012