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Routes in The Palace

Middle Earth T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Swat Team T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: B & J Gillett
Page Views: 47 total · 1/month
Shared By: Ross Swanson on Apr 20, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Enter the dihedral, and float up using feet and holds on the left to the base of the crack, 10c.

Jam the crack, at the wideness. Use a hidden foothold on left side, and if you are tall, a long reach to foot on right with additional right foot higher up. Gain the top of the crack on the left side by pinching the the horn 10c with tape, harder without tape.

Past a stance, continue with traverse in a right-leaning crack, a #3 or #2 Camalot is a nice addition here. Continue traversing the crack a short way until the crack starts to go around corner & offers a good sinker. Place a good Alien or similar, find small feet/smear, and using an undercling, walk upir feet up high until you can slap the horizontal feeling around for the crack that you will want to put another Alien into. Step left to gain this ledge, 10c. Continue up short crack on left using large out of sight flake on the right to 2 bolt anchor.

Location

From the big parking area, look back to the east behind you and see the cliff up high. Once at the base look left and find the wide OH hand crack above the tight dihedral.

Protection

Standard rack + 4 & 4.5, tape.

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