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Routes in The Palace

Middle Earth T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Swat Team T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: R. Fields
Page Views: 216 total, 5/month
Shared By: Ross Swanson on Apr 20, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

From a ledge, go up easy, broken blocks until below a corner and crack system and a small roof. Below the roof, the crack is incipient, so you must start on the arete on the left side, then traverse back right to the crack. Continue up the crack to a 2 bolt anchor.

## Caution, there is a 1'x 1' block on ledge below anchors that is loose but LOOKs totally solid ##.

For pitch 2, go up to roof on left, then traverse out right through cracks in an airy traverse. After about ~25', you will be able to go up a dihedral* with some cracks in it for gear, 10b. At easier ground, find the 2 bolt anchor 20' up.

  • Or continue the traverse for another 15' into the head wall and find the tight crack in the dihedral above your head. Put good gear in this crack and launch up with good heel or toe hook on the left to gain the ledge, 10d or 11a.
  • One can also pass the tight crack above and enter wide crack 5' further to the right that goes straight up, we did not climb this one as the wide gear was used up.

Location

This route goes up a good crack system in large, right-facing corner that splits the face.

Protection

Standard rack.

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