Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Doug Redosh, Dave Clark Rogers, LP?
Page Views: 1,906 total · 33/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Apr 12, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project Details

Description

This is a more-difficult-than-it-looks crack system to the left of Tweety.

Start down and left at an obvious crack going up to a nook. Place pro with long sling(s), and make a slightly precarious traverse (crux) right to gain the obvious crack system. Continue upwards with face holds and occasionally funky jams to finish in a wider slot. A directional off the tree to the left (2 x 48" slings) may be nice for the follower. Use the anchor bolts down and right as for Tweety.

FWIW, this felt a bit harder than Tweety.

Location

This is down and left of Tweety starting perhaps 30 feet left and finishing perhaps 10 feet left.

Protection

A single rack of nuts to a #3 Camalot worked; however, it seemed that there were multiple #1 Camalot sized placements. The wires that you may use just seem to not quite set in the slicker rock slots.

Photos

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