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Routes in East Colfax

2**6 S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Another Earth S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Aurora Sports Park S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Earth First S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Earth Mover S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
East Colfax T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Fill In The Blanks S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
For The Grandchildren S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
For the Children S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Good Earth, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Handy Work T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Heaven & Earth S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hunting Party S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
I Did! I Did! S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
I Tawt I Taw A Puddy Tat S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Just A Smidgen Harder S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
One For All S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Planet Earth S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Speeding Ticket S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Steve's Wild Turkey Day S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sylvester S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
To the Ends of the Earth S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Tweety S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Warn 'er T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
When I'm 64 S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wild Bore S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Greg Hand & PH, 5/27/2014
Page Views: 6,462 total, 150/month
Shared By: Greg Hand on May 27, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is steeper and more difficult than the slab routes to the right. Climb through 3 overhangs on big holds. It might be the best route on the cliff. This required removal of several loose blocks.

Location

Between East Colfax & Steve's Wild Turkey Day, start as for East Colfax on the right side of the easy gully.

Protection

9 bolts to 2-bolt chains. Use a full length runner on the 2nd bolt to reduce drag.
Colin Johnston
  5.9-
Colin Johnston  
  5.9-
Great route with solid hands the whole way.

Definitely recommend clipping the 3rd bolt prior to pulling the 1st roof, since it's the trickiest move, and a fall from the second bolt would be quite unpleasant. Nov 2, 2016
David Tennant
Denver, CO
  5.9-
David Tennant   Denver, CO
  5.9-
Climbs a lot better than it looks. I found the crux to be the at the third bolt, the first roof. I really enjoyed all three roofs, each had great hand holds and less obvious feet, which made for great climbing. The anchor is close to a free hanging one, I was just able to stand on the ledge next to it while cleaning. Was really well-protected, especially the roofs, the first had the highest to clip, if you wanted to clip pre-pulling the roof, so being shorter may be more committing. Oct 26, 2015
JeanGClimbs
Reading, VT
JeanGClimbs   Reading, VT
Found this route harder than 5.8, especially for the shorter climber. I am 5'4" and found the crux bolt very difficult to clip. Once clipped, the move over the roof is burly and awkward. I pulled some dried up moss and dirt out of that corner when I lowered, as it detracted from the route by getting dirt in my eyes once over the roof.

Compared to the other moderates at this wall including the other 5.8 Sylvester, this felt like a sandbag. My taller male friend led it and agreed it felt easily 5.9+. Sep 22, 2014
Matt Pierce
Denver, CO
  5.8
Matt Pierce   Denver, CO
  5.8
Fun route - that second bolt needs to be extended to avoid terrible rope drag for the leader. Sep 17, 2014
Parker Wrozek
Denver, CO
  5.9
Parker Wrozek   Denver, CO
  5.9
Best route at the crag. Fun roof moves, harder the shorter you are. A couple runners will help with the rope drag. Jul 27, 2014
Ben D.
Colorado
5.9-
Ben D.   Colorado
5.9-
My new favorite at East Colfax! Super well-protected and a good series of roofs early on. Climb climber's left of the last bolt for a nice finishing move, or go climber's right for easier grade. This would be the best 5.9 in the canyon if not for the 20' ramp to the start. Still, a worthwhile climb for those breaking into the lead .8/easy .9 grade! Thanks for putting it up, Greg & Paul! Jun 20, 2014
JohnEdsonStagg
Evergreen, CO
5.9 R
JohnEdsonStagg   Evergreen, CO
5.9 R
A very fun route. Each roof has a trick to it. Look for the hidden handholds. Also watch out for loose rock. It's a new route so it still needs a lot of cleaning. I pulled off a few rocks. Jun 1, 2014