Type: Trad, Sport, 110 ft
FA: Kevin Capps
Page Views: 4,543 total · 48/month
Shared By: Kevin Capps on Jul 22, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


30 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project - Completed Details

Description

East Colfax starts out with some easy climbing that leads to a small, overhanging crux section, continues on some easier terrain that leads to more balanced climbing, and finishes on some beautiful sidepulls over a small roof to get to the anchors. If you diverge from the route, you may encounter not so good rock.

Protection

8 bolts, #0.5 & #2 Camalot, + 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

Kevin Capps
Golden, CO
  5.11-
Kevin Capps   Golden, CO
  5.11-
A few comments; a 70m rope is nice (60m, tie the end), the route is still a bit dusty and rusty but will clean up, the 0.5 cam is for protecting [mid]-route and the #2 is for the hand crack near the top, and have fun. Jul 22, 2011
Luke Childers
  5.11b PG13
Luke Childers  
  5.11b PG13
Did this on TR with the man with the FA... Kevin and found the route very entertaining. Some unusual but enjoyable climbing past the 1st steep lower headwall then found myself pulling out onto this fantastic exposed arĂȘte!! The top out was odd for me and still a bit dirty, but with all new lines with time more ascents, it will clean up nicely. Climbs better than it looks as well. It kinda ended my day 'cause it's kinda epic!!! But well worth a visit. Also, Kevin, your route description say it's the only route on the wall.... With the addition of the new 5.7 "Wild Bore", you may want to update that info, sir.... Good climbing with you today, man. See you when you get back in town!! Oct 25, 2011
Luke Childers
  5.11b PG13
Luke Childers  
  5.11b PG13
Oh by the way, Kevin.... You couldn't have given that line a better name, man!! It's fully East Colfax!! Great work! Oct 25, 2011
chinos  
Hey Kevin, nice FA. I was looking at this when we last climbed. Good to see you guys are still at it! Hope to climb again in the future! Nov 7, 2011
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
Hmmm, perhaps a 2 foot strip of duct tape to pad that sharp edge just below the 6th bolt might ease the mind of the weak.

Also, there is now a 2 bolt anchor with links and biners at halfway. Jul 20, 2013
Kevin Capps
Golden, CO
  5.11-
Kevin Capps   Golden, CO
  5.11-
I put an extra bolt in halfway for an anchor so if people didn't have cams on them they could just do a quick 11a pitch and lower down. Not the best route in the world but kinda fun I guess, haha. Jul 22, 2013
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.11a/b PG13
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.11a/b PG13
I made it through the lower part, which I thought was the crux, but bailed halfway up the top section. It seemed too risky to make some of the clips. I brought gear and wish I had more. Has the route changed? Sep 9, 2013
Kevin Capps
Golden, CO
  5.11-
Kevin Capps   Golden, CO
  5.11-
Not that I know of. A few of the moves going up and right after the ledge halfway are a little forced, but the moves past that are fun. After putting a #2 Cam in the upper crack you kinda move out right towards the arĂȘte then back up and left over the small roof for the final crux. Sep 9, 2013
Kevin Capps
Golden, CO
  5.11-
Kevin Capps   Golden, CO
  5.11-
When I put the first set of anchors in, there were fixed biners on the quicklinks. Now that someone has stolen them, I do not plan on investing anymore money into this climb. If anyone climbs this to the first anchor, they may want to consider another set of quicklinks so their rope doesn't get twisted. Jan 27, 2014
Dillon Blanksma
Golden, CO
 
Dillon Blanksma   Golden, CO
 
Kevin, this is a worthy route, particularly because it's most likely going to be open among the crowds of families climbing all the 6s and 7s! The initial 11a to the first set of anchors offered a burly, fun sequence to gain the jug and the ledge.

Just one small tip for those continuing onto the 11b mixed section: be aware of rope drag when placing your gear. Remember to extend those suckers! I royally screwed myself by not thinking of where the rope was redirected. Be aware of deviating from the route - I encountered a loose, torso-sized rock that I thankfully didn't pull on: it's now X'ed with chalk. I think the PG-13 comes after placing the #2 in the upper hand crack, where you deviate slightly right and a good 5-6ft above that piece. The #2 placement is bomber though. Just move thoughtfully through that upper crux. Pulling the final roof to the anchors was rough. I could tell not many finish the route, because the quality was sub-par with a lot of lichen. Just needs to be cleaned and then climbed more often I suppose. For peace of mind, take 0.5-#2 because you could find placements for a 0.75 or #1 if you felt you needed it - but again watch for drag or the upper crux is worse! Mar 15, 2018
Parker Wrozek
Denver, CO
 
Parker Wrozek   Denver, CO
 
I really enjoyed this route. There are 2 options for the lower anchor if you feel like it. Unfortunately I couldn't finish the route. Trying to move out right at the top from the crack, I just couldn't figure out (I could see the jug...it was so close but far away...). I had placed my #2 lower between the first anchor and next bolt, but #1 was good up high. Fell on it three times before lowering and walking around to the anchor to get my gear.... I also found the route to be safe, the sharp edge Leo mentioned was most concerning, but it is not as sharp as it looks. Aug 9, 2018