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Routes in Confederate Cracks

Adhesive Love S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chinese Soul Food S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Classique T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Deft Jam T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Door Prize S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fat Bastard S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fool's Gold T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I Fought Piranhas T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
In The Crack Or On Your Back T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Knob Creek S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Message to a Hairy Man Back S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mud and The Blood and the Beer, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Seamstress, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Shelob's Lair T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Solid S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
T-Slab S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Up your Buttress T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
WMA Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Justin Fiola
Page Views: 579 total, 13/month
Shared By: Paul K. on Mar 24, 2014
Admins: TylerKC

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Description

The route starts off hard right away with a left hand arĂȘte and mostly blank slab. The bolts are fairly close together, but use care on the first three bolts because it's easy for something to unexpectedly blow off. about 3/4 of the way up you get to a crimp, which feels like the biggest hold in the world. After reaching the crimp it's significantly easier but still fun.

Location

This route is immediately right of Deft Jam in the Confederate Crack area, which is part of the West Side. Look for a obvious arĂȘte for a left hand.

Protection

(8) bolts to an anchors with fixed rap rings.

Photos

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This route is the coolest, most intense, arete-slab-laybacking-off-dimples-and-wrinkles route I've ever climbed! Very unique. A must-do! Mar 21, 2017