For next few days, REI will DOUBLE your gift to the Access Fund - up to $65,000. Donate Now!
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Confederate Cracks

Adhesive Love S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chinese Soul Food S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Classique T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Deft Jam T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Door Prize S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fat Bastard S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fool's Gold T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I Fought Piranhas T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
In The Crack Or On Your Back T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Knob Creek S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Message to a Hairy Man Back S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mud and The Blood and the Beer, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Seamstress, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Shelob's Lair T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Solid S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
T-Slab S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Up your Buttress T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
WMA Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 55 ft
FA: Tony Morris
Page Views: 5,441 total · 42/month
Shared By: Dave Wise on Nov 12, 2007
Admins: TylerKC

You & This Route


65 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description [Suggest Change]

Excellent splitter hand and fist crack in a shallow dihedral. Crux is at the start, route is sustained at the grade

Location [Suggest Change]

Continue hiking past WMA crack. Def Jam is around the next buttress, uphill behind a boulder (a small trail splits off from the main trail right up to it). If you encounter the sign for Crackhouse Alley, you've gone too far. There's a 5.12 bolted arete (Door Prize) just to the right and twin finger cracks (The Mud, the Blood, and the Beer .11b)to the left.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Mostly #2 camalots, a few #3s and a #1 should suffice. 2 bolt anchor at top on left side wall of dihedral. Pull rope left to avoid getting it caught in the crack.

Photos

J Sandwich
IA
 
J Sandwich   IA
 
Thin hands to hands for big mitts Dec 3, 2012
Spenser Bolte
  5.9
Spenser Bolte  
  5.9
Rack up on your right side and back. Just trusted me. Dec 24, 2012
Curtis Summers
Fort Worth Texas
 
Curtis Summers   Fort Worth Texas
 
Loved this route !!
Def rack to the right side
awesome view at the top
Loved it Jan 26, 2014
Curtis Summers
Fort Worth Texas
 
Curtis Summers   Fort Worth Texas
 
o and anchors are behind you Jan 26, 2014

More About Deft Jam

Printer-Friendly