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Routes in Confederate Cracks

Adhesive Love S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chinese Soul Food S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Classique T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Deft Jam T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Door Prize S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fat Bastard S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fool's Gold T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I Fought Piranhas T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
In The Crack Or On Your Back T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Knob Creek S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Message to a Hairy Man Back S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mud and The Blood and the Beer, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Seamstress, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Shelob's Lair T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Solid S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
T-Slab S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Up your Buttress T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
WMA Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 55 ft
FA: Tony Morris
Page Views: 5,266 total, 43/month
Shared By: Dave Wise on Nov 12, 2007
Admins: TylerKC

You & This Route


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Description

Excellent splitter hand and fist crack in a shallow dihedral. Crux is at the start, route is sustained at the grade

Location

Continue hiking past WMA crack. Def Jam is around the next buttress, uphill behind a boulder (a small trail splits off from the main trail right up to it). If you encounter the sign for Crackhouse Alley, you've gone too far. There's a 5.12 bolted arete (Door Prize) just to the right and twin finger cracks (The Mud, the Blood, and the Beer .11b)to the left.

Protection

Mostly #2 camalots, a few #3s and a #1 should suffice. 2 bolt anchor at top on left side wall of dihedral. Pull rope left to avoid getting it caught in the crack.

Photos

Curtis Summers
Fort Worth Texas
 
Curtis Summers   Fort Worth Texas
 
o and anchors are behind you Jan 26, 2014
Curtis Summers
Fort Worth Texas
 
Curtis Summers   Fort Worth Texas
 
Loved this route !!
Def rack to the right side
awesome view at the top
Loved it Jan 26, 2014
Spenser Bolte
  5.9
Spenser Bolte  
  5.9
Rack up on your right side and back. Just trusted me. Dec 24, 2012
Stranger In Iowa   IA
 
Thin hands to hands for big mitts Dec 3, 2012