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Routes in Gunsmoke Area

Enter the Dragon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fists of Fury T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jack the Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jack the Ripper T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Tony Yaniro and Dario Gambretta, 1978
Page Views: 489 total · 9/month
Shared By: Izzy Nawfal on Mar 19, 2014
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: NEW RESTRICTIONS Details

Description

This route is mapped out in Randy Vogel's book, but no mention anywhere else. Starts off inside a shaded area with a chimney. Fun climb. Set your pro high on the traverse to avoid getting your rope snagged. Extend your quickdraw at the end of the traverse to avoid drag.

Location

This is right of Enter the Dragon in the Gunsmoke area.

Protection

small/medium cams and assorted nuts. Gear anchor. You can easily walk off to the right.

Photos

Tricamus
Culver City, CA
 
Tricamus   Culver City, CA
 
Such a fun route! We found the initial roof traverse to gain the ledge a bit spicy, but the route was super fun and diverse (under-cling traverse, sporty bulging traverse, and a nice squeeze chimney finish with tons of rope drag. Would recommend folding your rope in 1/2 and climbing as doubles for this one (for both you and your follower)

Based on the photo comment, I guess the original route goes through the tempting roof crack in the middle of the large ledge (will definitely be back for this!). But also note that the Vogel guide will show the beta as noted on this page, the Bartlett guide will show it through the roof. Jan 14, 2018

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