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Gunsmoke Area Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Gunsmoke Area

L › R R › L A › Z

	Die-Hedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Enter the Dragon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Fists of Fury T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Jack the Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Jack the Ripper T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

GPS:	34.02796, -116.14458 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By:	Mike Morley on Jun 21, 2002
Admins:	Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.

The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

The Gunsmoke Traverse (V3) is the main attraction here, but several other quality problems can be found in the vicinity. Southern exposure makes this a hot one during mid-day.

Note: A large boulder fell off to the right of Gunsmoke in February 2003. The routes Fists of Fury and Enter the Dragon no longer exist, as well as a newer bolted line that had been put up several weeks before; Gunsmoke was unaffected.

Getting There

Bike, walk, or drive to Barker Dam Day Use Area, 1.5 miles northeast of Hidden Valley Campground along newly paved road. From the parking area, walk the Barker Dam Loop Trail clockwise until you see an interpretive sign for 'Manzanita - Little Apples'. (If the first sign you pass says 'Turbinella Oak - Co-Evolution', you're going the wrong direction). Bear right (north) off main trail for approximately 150 yards to the Gunsmoke alcove, or just follow the throng of other boulderers.