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Routes in Gunsmoke Area

Enter the Dragon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fists of Fury T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jack the Ripper T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Tony Yaniro, 1978
Page Views: 738 total, 4/month
Shared By: Josh Beck on Mar 2, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Note: This route no longer exists due to rockfall in February 2003. The description remains for historical significance only.

A fist crack out a short roof right off the ground leads to a squeeze chimney. What looks like heinous offwidthing around the lip of the roof is made much easier by a "thank god" hold inside the crack. Squeeze and standard chimneying lead to the top. Might deserve an "s" rating as it's hard to protect higher though the climbing is easy and it's not a chimney that you're likely to fall out of. Gear anchor and descend a low angle chimney behind and to the right of the route.

Protection

Fist sized to the biggest you got. The crux is low and can be protected with 2.5-5" gear. The climbing above in the chimney is easier but you'd need #4 big bros to protect it if at all.

Photos

Joe Keyser
Scottsdale, AZ
Joe Keyser   Scottsdale, AZ
Went looking for this and enter the dragon the other day, and was bummed to find a pile of boulders instead. I don't think our guidebook, or "area OW list" mentioned that this crag had fallen down?! Mar 25, 2007