Type: Trad, 40 ft (12 m)
FA: Dave Ohlson and Jon Lonne, April 1976
Page Views: 1,064 total · 8/month
Shared By: Russ Walling on Jan 10, 2014
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

The opening moves are a semi tough series of laybacks and pinches and advanced free climbing moves to gain the deep flaring slot in the middle of the pitch. Rest up in here and get ready for the crux top out. Keeping your last pro out of your hand slot is probably recommended. Interesting and sorta sequential moves will have you on the summit. 

Lonne and Ohlson are responsible for a host of burly routes at Joshua Tree - the Banana Cracks, Morongo Man, etc.

Location Suggest change

The curving "S" shaped crack in the middle of the formation. The start is on some thin layaways just to the right of a cantaloupe shaped hole at groin level.

Descend to climbers left, over the back and down.

Protection Suggest change

Small wires in suspect rock down low, followed by some good cams in the .5" to 3" range.

Top anchor is a few pieces in the 1" to 2 1/2" range. To top rope, bring a cordalette.

Photos

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