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Routes in S-Crack Formation

Furthest Right S Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jingus Con T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Left S-Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Middle S Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Right S Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Dave Ohlson, John Lonne, 4/76
Page Views: 317 total · 6/month
Shared By: Russ Walling on Jan 10, 2014
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The opening moves are a semi tough series of laybacks and pinches and advanced free climbing moves to gain the deep flaring slot in the middle of the pitch. Rest up in here and get ready for the crux top out. Keeping your last pro out of your hand slot is probably recommended. Interesting and sorta sequential moves will have you on the summit. Top anchor is a few pieces in the 1" to 2 1/2" range.
To top rope, bring a long extendo runner or something similar to extend to the lip.
I'd go a full three stars out of five on this rig. It is better than "good", but not "great".

Location

The curving "S" shaped crack in the middle of the formation. The start is on some thin layaways just to the right of a cantaloupe shaped hole at groin level.

Descend to climbers left, over the back and down.

Protection

Small wires in suspect rock down low, followed by some good cams in the .5" to 3" range.

Photos

Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
 
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
 
I agree with all of the above, but I was able to get a good rest in the flare, and could be damn near no hands if you have the leg power of a rodeo barrel racer. If I was leading this thing (which I'm not) I would shake out for a while at this rest before punching out the top moves. They are pretty powerful and will use up some of that gas in your tank. Jan 10, 2014
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.11a R
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.11a R
" advanced free climbing moves " I like it.... that was ME!!! Larger than cantaloupe (more basketball size) hole at the start seemed pretty key to reset into the crack. First third of the route is less than quality white grainy rock with foot holds that are ever changing. The wide slot yields no real jams until the top but plenty of liebacking which seems to be the theme of this route. Tough set of moves about 4 'down from summit...I'd go with sequential unless you're super strong (which I am not). Very good and worthy of two laps!

Jan 10, 2014