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Routes in S-Crack Formation

Furthest Right S Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jingus Con T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Left S-Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Middle S Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Right S Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Dave Ohlson & Jon Lonne 4/76
Page Views: 682 total · 4/month
Shared By: Brian Reynolds on Feb 8, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The Left S-Crack is not S-shaped at all (then again, neither is the Right S-Crack). It sure is a lot of fun, though. Wide crack and stem moves down low get you to a slight rest about two-third of the way up. Then it's a great slightly-overhanging jug-fest to the top. There's no real crux section to this climb, and nothing's too hard, thanks to great hands that appear just as you need them. This is a great route to run laps on.

The climb starts a few feet to the left of my yellow and black pack that you can see in the picture. Follow a right-slanting crack/chimney until it peters out, then move left and up through the overhanging section to top out near the left edge of the formation.

2 stars out of 5.

Protection

standard rack -- long slings may be helpful for the awkward anchor set-up on top

Photos

Donno
Newport Beach
  5.8
Donno   Newport Beach
  5.8
Every move of this climb is good. Oct 13, 2009
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
  5.8+
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
  5.8+
Good route and solid for the grade. Downclimb to climbers left over the back of the formation. Jan 10, 2014
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
Fun route. The crack, although somewhat wide in the first 15 feet or so, protects maybe better with smaller cams. At the transition left for the summit crack, there is a gritty flared type pod to dump a 3.5 or 4 Camalot before going to hands. Anchor is funky. You could probably be able to make a variety of things work but I opted for the 2.5" crack in a boulder about 10' back. Gear was good but something was odd about it... Jan 10, 2014
mhagny Hagny
  5.8
mhagny Hagny  
  5.8
Just pure fun. I echo the previous comment that every move was interesting and fun. Feb 22, 2017

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