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Routes in S-Crack Formation

Furthest Right S Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jingus Con T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Left S-Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Middle S Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Right S Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 38 ft
FA: unclaimed!
Page Views: 61 total, 1/month
Shared By: Russ Walling on Jan 10, 2014
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Sorta hard opening moves on fairly suspect rock give you a dilemma... do I move left like right now on a dike that looks good but may not take pro, or... do I bust a few moves up the dark finger crack that takes good pro and then move left? Either way the moves are not that good and the right variation is probably better, but they both sorta suck. Whatever poison you choose, make a move left at some point into the low angle corner after about 20 feet and scramble to the summit on large holds.

Location

On the right end of the S Crack formation, starting on a flat topped boulder. Stand tall on this boulder and if you can grab it, that is the start of the route. Descend over the back and to climbers left.

Protection

Finger and hand sized pieces depending on which way you go. No anchor on top, but you can move over to the two bolts atop Jingus Con, the two bolt route to the left.

Photos

susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
This route is not the gem of the crag. Pseudo awkward start, just enough so you're thinking about the crappy pro. Soon after you're questioning whether you bail out early and left or take the finger crack for a bit and some better rock. Finger crack was opted for, then I bailed left to what turned into 5.4 climbing. Okay pro, loose rock. Less than spectacular. Use bolted anchor to left ( if using bolted anchor, consider protecting the traversing 5.4 climbing to keep the follower from bitching that they may pitch if rock blows out) or set anchor up top... lots-o-options.

Maybe worth a tick.....if you're chasing 1,000 Jan 10, 2014