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Routes in Stony Clove - West Side

Climax T,TR WI2+
Curtain, The T WI4
Entertainer, The T,TR WI3+
Exit Stage Left T WI3+
FOUR FOOT FALL TR WI2-3
Gurgler, The WI3
Ice Capades T,TR WI2+
Little Black Dike WI4
Off Stage WI2+
Ron's Gully T,TR WI2+
Them That Die Are The Lucky Ones T,TR WI3+
WALL SHITS TR WI2
Workshop, The T M3
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Type: Trad, Mixed, 75 ft
FA: Alan Kline
Page Views: 566 total · 10/month
Shared By: Michael C on Dec 28, 2013
Admins: Jeffrey Dunn

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Description

About 60m left of "Spead 'Em Wide" is a significant left-facing corner.

Protection

Standard rock rack up to #4 cam, pitons.

Photos

Michael C
New Jersey
  M3
Michael C   New Jersey
  M3
For every 3-4 moves there's a good resting stance. The crux is near the top, a stemming smear below a roof, and then move right. Route is listed as M3 in the Third Edition of the Catskills Ice Guide. I climbed with route with Alan Kline (who has the first ascent) and he felt conditions that day made it more of an M5. Mostly protects with cams, large stoppers, pitons, and a pecker was used towards the top in some turf between rocks. Dec 28, 2013
This is a fun and well protected moderate mixed route. Probably about as easy as mixed climbing gets. The crux is at the top moving around the roof with a good small cam for pro. The top out, however, is horrendous. Mar 24, 2014

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