Type: Ice, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,664 total · 26/month
Shared By: Dan Flynn on Dec 20, 2013 with improvements by Joao Bras-Jorge
Admins: Jeffrey Dunn

You & This Route

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Dead vertical start gets to a small rest about halfway up, then a bit lower angle for last 30 ft.
Marty Molitoris on Little Black Dike, Stony Clove in December.


Between Spiral Staircases and the Entertainer. The massive right-facing corner will be the sign you're in the right place.


There are two trees above the climb as noted in the comments below. The highest tree anchor requires a 70m rope for descent.


Two options for anchor tree up top: 1) step right to the tree close to the lip. 2) continue straight up past roots for 25 ft beyond the top of the ice. This tree provides a better located rope for the second or subsequent TR. BUT a 70m rope is REQUIRED.

If the mud isn't frozen solid, either of these finishes will be extremely insecure. Jan 30, 2014
Michael C
New Jersey
Michael C   New Jersey
12-23-2014, new rap anchor. top-out and on the right hand side there's a purple static rope at the tree (it is also connected to a larger tree behind it). Dec 29, 2014
James Maughan
Burnt Hills NY
James Maughan   Burnt Hills NY
A 60m rope was just long enough for us to rap from the tree straight up from the lip. Feb 4, 2015
Fort Collins, CO
Kurtz   Fort Collins, CO
As of 1/10/17, all comments above are still correct. The rap station to climbers right is surrounded by precarious rocks that might not be frozen in place. Very sketchy IMHO! We used the tree station directly above the route and just barely made it with a single 60m. Had to downclimb one move. Another party used a rap station atop the rock prow to climbers left that got them down with a single 60m. Jan 11, 2017