Stony Clove - West Side Climbing
| GPS: |
42.19273, -74.1764 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 27,329 total · 118/month |
| Shared By: | Taino Grosjean on Feb 5, 2007 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jeffrey Dunn, Morgan Patterson |
Description
West side cliffs of Stony Clove offering many reliable ice lines of all difficulties. Moderate approach, mostly single-pitch lines, some with bolted anchors, a few multipitch options and endless opportunities for the creative-minded. East facing, gets sun early, some lines in the corners like Little Black Dike see the sun briefly in the morning and then are shaded the rest of the day. Some flows in the open get lots of sun, and others like Ron's Gully see very little. I can't see how one would scramble up or hike around; you need to lead to set up the climbs here.
Getting There
Park at the Notch Lake parking lot (Devil's Path Trailhead, "DP(R) Trail Access" on Google Maps). Stony Jr. is located close to the south end of Notch Lake off Devil's Path. For everything else, walk north along the road on the parking lot side uphill. Routes like Power of One, Stage Fright, and The Gurgler are located up behind the stand of pine trees past the north end of Notch Lake. For most other routes, head uphill along the left side of the road past the historical marker to the height of land and continue downhill just a bit. You'll see the prominent flows up high on the cliff band through the trees. After walking downhill for a minute or so, hopefully you find someone has already forged a path. If not, quest up the snow-covered talus, careful not to dislodge any loose boulders onto your friend below. Best to angle up and right and aim for the base of The Entertainer, a wide prominent flow towards the north end of Stony West. Can take a different line thru the talus to reach the routes closer to the lot. Could use spikes, crampons, or snowshoes for approach depending on the conditions. Some routes like Ron's Gully and Climax have some tat at the bottom to rap off down the talus to deproach. One could even benefit from using these anchors to just handline down your rope to speed up the descent. Best not to butt slide this one... It seriously is worth taking two headlamps (one front one back) or some reflective tape/clothing if you plan on hiking out in the dark... walking along the road is probably the most dangerous part of the day. Cross the road to face into traffic on the way back.
Classic Climbing Routes at Stony Clove - West Side
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