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Early Access
Routes in Play Pen
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Bulletin Board T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Child's Play S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Froggy Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Lil' School Girl T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Old Man's Myth T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Pirate's Booty S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Recess S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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School's Out T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Teeter Totter Roof T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Toy Box S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 75 ft (23 m) |
| GPS: | 39.74194, -105.41271 |
| FA: | ??? on the original FA-(old school aid line) |
| Page Views: | 2,064 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Drew Spaulding on Nov 16, 2013 |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
Description
After some cleaning and excavating of the crack, I led this line with all natural gear in September '13. We had found an old piton that came out quite easily. It seems obvious some "Old Man" had been up there training for the bigger walls of Eldo, The Black, and beyond.... They may have climbed up to the right where the crack system splits into a Y (looks like fun free climbing too). There is a large "boot-shaped flake" to the left of the crack that is hollow and gonging when tested. It seems to be solidly connected at its top, but avoiding it is advised (hoping to extract this unwanted feature...). There is solid gear to the right and can be avoided.... A splitter finger crack leads up through some exciting finishing moves to share the same 2-bolt anchor with Toy Box.
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