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Routes in Lion Rock

Arete, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Austrian Staircase T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Firecracker T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gweilo S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Prelude S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Simba T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Top Cat T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wards Groove T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Sport, 250 ft, 4 pitches
FA: G. Pilcher & T. Brown (1991)
Page Views: 1,559 total · 26/month
Shared By: James K Haugen on Oct 24, 2013
Admins: Brian Boyd, Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

You & This Route


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Description

P0: Climb the Prelude inside corner to anchors.
Pitch 1: Third class climbing through the gully, then steep and juggy moves heading up and right. Belay at the left-facing inside corner.
Pitch 2 (F5): Take the right hand corner crack, belaying on the right.
Pitch 3 (F5): Make a short traverse right and climb around the corner to a large ledge. Belay at its far side.
Pitch 4 (F5+): Climb a short way up the wall above before traversing right to a small tree (crux). Follow the grooves above to the summit. Rope signals should be prearranged for this pitch as communication is difficult.

Location

Refer to hongkongclimbing.com/guide/… for more information.

Protection

Rebolted by Francis Haden - Jan 2014

Belay anchor condition (Oct 2013): P1 Excellent, P2: Satisfactory, P3: Satisfactory, P4 (Summit): Excellent.

Photos

Brandon Gottung
Moab, UT
  5.9
Brandon Gottung   Moab, UT
  5.9
Makes a good trad line if you have the gear. Oct 29, 2013

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