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Routes in Lion Rock

Arete, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Austrian Staircase T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Firecracker T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gweilo S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Prelude S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Simba T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Top Cat T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wards Groove T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Sport, 250 ft, 4 pitches
FA: G. Pilcher & T. Brown (1991)
Page Views: 1,559 total · 26/month
Shared By: James K Haugen on Oct 24, 2013
Admins: Brian Boyd, Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

You & This Route

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P0: Climb the Prelude inside corner to anchors.
Pitch 1: Third class climbing through the gully, then steep and juggy moves heading up and right. Belay at the left-facing inside corner.
Pitch 2 (F5): Take the right hand corner crack, belaying on the right.
Pitch 3 (F5): Make a short traverse right and climb around the corner to a large ledge. Belay at its far side.
Pitch 4 (F5+): Climb a short way up the wall above before traversing right to a small tree (crux). Follow the grooves above to the summit. Rope signals should be prearranged for this pitch as communication is difficult.


Refer to… for more information.


Rebolted by Francis Haden - Jan 2014

Belay anchor condition (Oct 2013): P1 Excellent, P2: Satisfactory, P3: Satisfactory, P4 (Summit): Excellent.


Brandon Gottung
Moab, UT
Brandon Gottung   Moab, UT
Makes a good trad line if you have the gear. Oct 29, 2013

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