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Routes in Lion Rock

Arete, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Austrian Staircase T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Firecracker T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gweilo S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Prelude S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Simba T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Top Cat T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wards Groove T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, Sport, 4 pitches
FA: Ward and Bunnell
Page Views: 148 total, 3/month
Shared By: Brian Boyd on Apr 13, 2014
Admins: Brian Boyd, Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

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Description

P0: Climb Prelude (5.8) as the access pitch.
P1: Same as for Gweilo - head up and left through the third class gully, followed by steep juggy climbing up and right. Belay at the left side of the twin inside corners.
P2: Climb the left inside corner on gear. Rarely climbed, and filled with ferns at present. At the top of the corner, traverse right to the Gweilo belay.
P3: Straight up from the belay through the difficult crack and chimney. Exit from underneath the large overhang -- the Lion's Head -- to a large belay ledge on the right.
P4: Continue straight up from the belay, moving left to a slab, and a final steep headwall.

P3 and P4 can seep for several days after rainfall, and P4 can get quite dirty after rain.

Location

Same start as for Gweilo.

Protection

Pitches 1, 3, and 4 are bolted. For P2, you will need stoppers and small cams. Alternately, you can climb P2 of Gweilo if you wish to leave the trad gear at home.

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