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Routes in Lion Rock

Arete, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Austrian Staircase T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Firecracker T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gweilo S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Prelude S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Simba T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Top Cat T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wards Groove T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, Sport, 4 pitches
FA: Ward and Bunnell
Page Views: 174 total · 4/month
Shared By: Brian Boyd on Apr 13, 2014
Admins: Brian Boyd, Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

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P0: Climb Prelude (5.8) as the access pitch.
P1: Same as for Gweilo - head up and left through the third class gully, followed by steep juggy climbing up and right. Belay at the left side of the twin inside corners.
P2: Climb the left inside corner on gear. Rarely climbed, and filled with ferns at present. At the top of the corner, traverse right to the Gweilo belay.
P3: Straight up from the belay through the difficult crack and chimney. Exit from underneath the large overhang -- the Lion's Head -- to a large belay ledge on the right.
P4: Continue straight up from the belay, moving left to a slab, and a final steep headwall.

P3 and P4 can seep for several days after rainfall, and P4 can get quite dirty after rain.


Same start as for Gweilo.


Pitches 1, 3, and 4 are bolted. For P2, you will need stoppers and small cams. Alternately, you can climb P2 of Gweilo if you wish to leave the trad gear at home.


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