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Routes in Lion Rock

Arete, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Austrian Staircase T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Firecracker T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gweilo S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Prelude S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Simba T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Top Cat T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wards Groove T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 75 total · 8/month
Shared By: Brian Boyd on May 28, 2017
Admins: Brian Boyd, Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

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Description

Top Cat is a two pitch trad variation to the initial pitches of Gweilo. Rap, or finish on Gweilo or Ward's Groove.

P1: Climb the lefthand crack. Move left to belay on the Gweilo anchors.
P2: Step back right and continue up the crack on easier terrain. Cruxy and committing moves at the top. Use the Gweilo anchors.

Location

Climb Prelude, and move the belay to the right: either at the small tree, or the chain anchor further right.

Protection

The crack is quite varied, and takes gear from tiny cams and stoppers (e.g., 0 TCU) up to #4 camalot.

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