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Routes in Lion Rock

Arete, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Austrian Staircase T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Firecracker T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gweilo S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Prelude S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Simba T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Top Cat T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wards Groove T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad
FA: G. Pilcher & M. Lancaster
Page Views: 220 total, 4/month
Shared By: Brandon Gottung on Oct 27, 2013
Admins: Brian Boyd, Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

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Feels hard and thin at 5.10a, but still good fun. Start on a short off width crack to the right of the main face, then step left onto the arete and climb up it trending left near the top. Continue up Firecracker for more fun!


The obvious arete on the right side of the west face.


There are various bolts protecting sections, but it is way more exciting to climb with a rack following the weaknesses. A #4 protects the offwidth start and a single rack of cams and stoppers will be enough for the whole route.